Paul Gerber’s rich career is an example of going one's own way. Unafraid to pursue unusual concepts and with a clear focus on innovation, his work is technical, characterful and not always given the recognition it deserves from the mainstream. Born in Bern, Switzerland, Gerber would move to Zurich after achieving his watchmaking diploma to open his own restoration workshop. One of the first independent watchmakers, he established his independent brand in 1976, to create original pieces and explore the limits of his ideas. He has won several awards, including the 2007 Gaïa Prize. Today, he is moving into semi-retirement, leaving behind a significant body of work. Gerber is not just a watchmaker, he is also an educator who works closely with younger watchmakers as a mentor, and is especially known for his knowledge and generosity.

Gerber’s work covers a broad spectrum, demonstrating his wide-ranging interests. Some notable examples include the MIH watch made for the Musée Internationale de l’Horlogerie, a minimalist piece featuring a simple annual calendar complication; to the “Superbia Humanitatis”, featured in the 2005 Guinness World Book of Records as the most complicated wristwatch ever created, which Gerber worked on with Franck Muller, who had added more complications to an already complicated Louis-Elysee Piguet movement.

Introduced in 2001, only 20 examples of the the Retro Twin ref. 158 were made, boasting a power reserve complication at 12 o'clock. The watch continues Gerber’s vision with a double-rotor system, the Paul Gerber 15, which is based on an extensively modified Peseux 7001 ebauche, which allows the watch to function as an automatic piece. This system is entirely unique, and Gerber holds a patent for it. The two platinum rotors are part of a modular system, with its own plate and bridge. A central coupling wheel is used to ensure that the rotors do not collide, and in turn, a jig secures the rotors to their wheels. The bridges themselves have a rather whimsical shape and are decorated with wave-style engravings. As a whole, the movement is decorated to an excellent standards, a delicate Côtes de Genève pattern and perlage.

The dial falls somewhere between classical and modern aesthetics, with an engine-turned curved pattern throughout the watch face, a brushed chapter ring with applied Arabic numerals in black, and a subtle contrast between dark and light grey areas. A retrograde seconds is placed in the lower half of the dial, with a power reserve sub-dial just under 12 o’clock. Two small sections on the left and right sides of the dial bear Paul Gerber’s signature and the watch’s number.

The case is 35.6mm in diameter, a smaller vintage size in keeping with the new trend towards smaller watches. It is double stepped on the main body, and this pattern is repeated with the lugs, which also feature a slim, tapered appearance, and are connected by spring bars. Overall, the piece is an excellent find for any collector looking to add a piece of independent watchmaking created by a celebrated but underrated maker, and who can appreciate the personality and ingenuity behind such a watch.

If sold within the United Kingdom, this Paul Gerber Retro Twin will be subject to 20% VAT

Closer look

Condition

This Paul Gerber Retro Twin 158 is in excellent overall condition. The case and lugs show virtually no signs of wear and has likely been worn on only a handful of occasions, if at all. The dial, hands, and movement are free from any signs of imperfections. Between the lugs at six o'clock and on the buckle, the hallmarks are crisp and well defined.

Warranty

The watch comes with a lifetime guarantee of authenticity from A Collected Man as well as the remaining duration of the manufacturer warranty from Paul Gerber.