Straddling the borders of independent and larger-scale watchmaking, Parmigiani Fleurier has often been overlooked, and is only discussed in select collecting circles. Officially created by Michel Parmigiani in 1996, the brand itself is young, and in its earliest days held a strong connection to traditional watchmaking, backed by Parmigiani’s work in restoration before beginning his own brand.

The earliest pieces produced by Parmigiani Fleurier are characterised by elegant styling, influenced by various concepts introduced during the Hellenistic period, such as the golden ratio and Greek columns. Through the generous backing of the Sandoz Family Foundation in a form of a patron-artist relationship, Parmigiani Fleurier were able to create a clear, coherent aesthetic that stayed true to their artistic spirit without compromise.

Over the years, Parmigiani Fleurier watches have been a steady presence on the scene, due to factors such as the fact that King Charles III has been seen wearing an early automatic Toric Chronograph, which he purchased between the late 1990s and the early 2000s at the Klosters resort in Switzerland. The popularity of the current Parmigiani Fleurier catalogue has also increased interest in the brand’s earlier offerings, broadening collectors’ appreciation for these characterful watches.

Even today, however, Parmigiani’s earliest pieces, such as those created between the period of 1996 to the early 2000s, remain elusive and difficult to find, with few coming up for auction or sold publicly. In this collector’s guide, we piece together a picture of the beginnings of the Parmigiani Fleurier manufacture, explore the rarely seen watches of the early collections, and find out why collectors appreciate these pieces.

Michel Parmigiani was born in Couvet, a village in the canton of Neuchâtel, on 2nd December 1950. His family had Italian origins, which made it difficult for them to integrate fully into the village, even though Parmigiani was born and raised in Switzerland.

In an interview with Peter Speake for