The Chronomètre Souverain is often referred to as one of the original references F. P. Journe sought to bring to market as early as 1999, eventually choosing to defer its release till 2005. Then upon its release, the watch won the Men’s watch prize at the year’s Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG). In a catalogue characterised by off-centre displays, the central positioning of the Chronomètre Souverain's time-telling aspect was unusual. Offered in 38mm and then in the 40mm size, the brand’s 39mm case splits the difference just as it straddled the world of classicality and modernity.
The Chronomètre Holland & Holland came about when the watchmaker encountered in the historic British gunmaker the same traditions of precision hand craft that guide its watchmaking. Holland & Holland, founded in 1835, is often viewed as one of the finest and most traditional of British gunmakers. The company was acquired by Chanel in 2018 – which also has a stake in F. P. Journe. Today Holland & Holland is part of Beretta Holdings. Incidentally, F. P. Journe’s 33 Bruton Street address in London today used to be home to Holland & Holland in the past, adding yet another aspect of circularity to this collaboration.
The basis for the partnership comes from the Damascus steel used in two shotgun barrels from 1868 and 1882 from Holland & Holland’s museum collection. The gunmaker offered these to the watchmaker to be repurposed into dials. The barrels were cut and flattened at Holland and Holland’s workshop before being sent to F. P. Journe’s specialist dial concern, Les Cadraniers de Genève, where they were shaped and formed. The blank dials were then sent back to Holland and Holland to be treated to the traditional browning technique employed in gun-making to both preserve the steel and also accentuate the swirling patterns that result from the damascening process. These were finally pad printed. In total, the two shotgun barrels yielded 66 dials that were deployed in 39mm stainless-steel Chronomètre cases in 2017 and 2018. This is the only reference the brand has made in this metal in the 39mm size.
This is one example from the series. The case stands just 8.6mm tall. It’s three parts are marked by the rounded bezel and caseback that protrude slightly beyond the midcase. All parts wear even polishing. The flat crown features the rope motif that is the brand’s signature. The lugs are short and curve down quite dramatically, reducing the overall footprint of the watch face to just 46.5mm. The watch comes on a black, large-grained leather strap with curved ends. It is secured by a signed stainless-steel deployant clasp.
The caseback – secured by five holt head screws – features details such as the brand mark and motto, product line, metal, serial number, and the Holland & Holland mark, all deep laser-engraved.
The tobacco brown dial traces its provenance to barrel number 1382 from 1868. As such, it is one of 38 dials that were produced from this particular historic shotgun barrel. It is rich in texture and warmth, with the pad printed chemin de fer minutes track, Arabic hours chapter and brand mark done in an eggshell shade. The same shade is employed for the lacquer-painted hands. Notably absent is the off-centre subsidiary seconds register or power reserve indicator, allowing the dial texture to be the main show.
It is powered by the manually wound calibre 1304, visible through the sapphire of the exhibition caseback. As is to be expected from a calibre made of this era, it crafted from 18k rose gold. The view is dominated by the twin mainspring barrels, arranged vertically. They work together to provide a consistent delivery of power over the 56 hours of reserve. The balance is adjusted in six positions, one more than chronometric standards require. The free-sprung architecture of the balance makes it resistant to shocks. It beats at 21,600 vibrations per hour. In between the bridges, that feature Côtes de Genève that line up perfectly and delicate anglage, the drive train is concealed by a plate that wears clous de Paris detailing and engravings with the words ‘Holland’ and ‘Holland’ arched along the curvature of the two mainspring barrels. The baseplate features beautiful perlage.
On the bridge straddling the barrels are engraved details such as the brand mark and motto, as well as its jewel count (22) and the precious metal the movement is crafted from.
The watch comes with its full set of box and retail paperwork from 2019.
The Chronomètre Holland & Holland blends two worlds guided by tradition and hand craft in package that feels distinctly contemporary.
If sold within the United Kingdom, this F. P. Journe Chronomètre Holland & Holland will be subject to 20% VAT
