Petermann Bédat
1825

A new release from independent makers Gaël Petermann and Florian Bédat, this time-only example is their first uncomplicated watch focused entirely on developing their design and aesthetic identity.

When you imagine a watch, it’s likely that the image that first comes to mind is a simple three-handed example. How to make a memorable example in a sea of references from the past and present?

Quintessential and ubiquitous, the freedom from technical restraint also presents the greatest challenge. The pair mention that there were almost 25 potential shapes for the movement, and it was a long process to discover the best one, with an extended dialogue with their designer and many iterations before the final shape was determined.

Above all, their work is connected to and sits comfortably alongside shapes of the past. “The thing we say to people is that we’ve worked on a lot of beautiful watches, but so many of them don’t have open casebacks,” Petermann says. “But today, we have the chance to showcase the movement. We ask ourselves: if watchmakers from 200 years ago had the chance to create watches with open casebacks, what would they choose to show?”

Consisting of multiple layers, the dial has been carefully constructed to accommodate the design, integrating a champlevé technique for the transparent green enamel that fills the surface.

The watch nods to the Chronomètre Reference 1342, which was created in collaboration with Auffret Paris.

Before the enamel is applied, the dial is laser-engraved with different densities, as the inner and outer sections give the appearance of being different shades of green.

The sleek proportions of the case bring to mind vintage dress watches of the 1950s, while the shape itself is updated from the Reference 2941.

Just 38mm in diameter and 10.15mm tall including the crystal, the watch straddles traditional and modern sizing. The case has an especially slim profile, thanks to the design, and soft, curved lines give the watch a refined appearance.

When worn on the wrist, it sits comfortably thanks to the medium length and slight curvature of the lugs. The classical 18mm strap width complements the case proportions and gives the watch good presence on the wrist. The enamel dial appears discreet in low light conditions, and reveals its colour and depth under direct light.

A bell-shaped bridge — an unusual shape that naturally arose over the course of their design process, it acts as a unifying point for the three main bridges while also calling back to an older, aural form of signalling time. This complex shape also requires extensive finishing, as there is a large anglage surface, with six inward angles and three outward angles, and black polishing across the surface of the component.

The countersink — usually found in a smooth, rounded form, a noticeable point at 10 o’clock is present, mirroring the curves and edges of the bridges. Additionally, each wheel seen here is extensively decorated, and overall, the movement takes a significant amount of time to finish, with a single wheel taking almost a full day to complete.

Swan-neck system — an antique system allowing for finer timing adjustments, its delicate curve sits at the base of the movement landscape, its asymmetrical placement highlighting this traditional element. This is also beautifully finished, with black polish throughout and anglage seen on the edges.

Gaël Petermann

Petermann Bédat 1825, Rose Gold

Name: 1825 | Rose Gold
Brand: Petermann Bédat
SKU: WRG_P2382
Availability: InStock

Their third watch in just five years, this release sees Petermann Bédat build on their previous work, settling into their identity and aesthetic philosophy. The craft behind the Reference 1825 goes beyond the construction and finishing of the watch, manifesting in the design process, collaborative process, and considerations of shape. Culminating in a watch that announces itself clearly: this is Petermann Bédat.

The watch is intended to act as their flagship piece and will only be produced over the next four years. The reference will also undergo several variations in case metal and dial colour as time progresses.

Worth Reading

DIAL

Considering the watch’s overall design, we see that Reference 1825 leans on vintage references, as the pair look towards the past to inspire and challenge their own work. While their first two watches featured a more sculptural, openworked approach, the closed dial of the Reference 1825 is a source of intrigue, acting to complement the complex movement design as well as a masterful demonstration of thoughtful craft and process.

The dial itself consists of several layers. The base plate of the dial is in white gold, with deep engravings at each 5-minute mark that are a subtle touch invoking vintage sector dials. Meanwhile, the construction of the base plate itself features a raised outline encircling the centre of the dial, the sub-dial, and with two indicators at 9 and 3 o’clock respectively. These act as borders for the enamelling step of the process, in a style close to champlevé enamelling.

But before the enamel is applied, the dial is laser-engraved with different densities – less densely on the outer section of the dial and more densely on the central section, with this slight difference providing the appearance of lighter and darker shades respectively through the varying reflection of light. Overall, this produces a kind of two-tone effect that further brings to mind the watch’s vintage inspirations, with particular reference to pocket watches of the 20th century.

A layer of transparent green grand feu enamel is laid over this textured surface, filling each of the sections created at the base plate stage, and making a glassy appearance in the light. Printing comes next, with the Petermann Bédat logo and name, as well as the subdial markers completed in white. The final stage involves the placement of the minute track on the outermost section of the dial, as well as the applied, unobtrusive rectangular indices at each 5 minute mark.

These invocations of the past inform their work but are crucially not imitations — acting more as tributes. Bédat adds, “A lot of the pocketwatches in our books have very interesting shapes that we don’t see a lot today. We always turn to the books to see what was done and how we can bring that into the modern era.

MOVEMENT

When faced with designing the new movement for the Reference 1825, the pair asked themselves: how to make it uniquely Petermann Bédat?

As Petermann mentions, “For us, it’s very important to have our own identity, in terms of the movement. With the deadbeat seconds, we tried to create something different, with the complication. Then when it came to the chronograph, I think we developed a real identity. So, after that, we said we need to keep this — but what exactly is our identity? We are not a brand that shows all the components. We know we like pocket watches. Ultimately, we need to find our own way to show things.”

In this way, the time-only piece grew from a single idea, fusing their love of pocket watches with their past work. A shared feature of many pocket watches is the isolated small bridge used for the crown wheel, which, for many modern watches today manifests as a single bridge for both the barrel and crown wheel. This seed became a key detail around which the pair constructed the rest of the movement. Additionally, steel bridges can be found in both their 1967 Deadbeat Seconds and 2941 Chronograph, and Petermann and Bédat were determined to integrate this within the Reference 1825.

A breaking point came in their original decision to depart from tradition and create a symmetrical movement. However, this didn’t feel right for several reasons. As Bédat mentions, “in the symmetrical version, we removed the swan-neck system, and for me that was quite a shame, but we had to do that because it was symmetrical. That’s one of the reasons I asked Gaël to change the design, because I believe [the swan-neck system] is something we need to keep on all our watches.”

CASE

The case of this Reference 1825 is crafted from rose gold, and builds on the shape of the previous Reference 2941. A sleeker iteration of their previous work, the case is just 38mm in diameter, straddling modern and traditional sizing, and is also only 10.15mm in thickness, including the crystal. The watch will first be released in white and rose gold.

OUR STORY

Our admiration for Petermann Bédat stretches back to the brand’s inception, intrigued by their vision and interpretation of their influences. Over the years, their work has only grown from strength to strength, mirroring the rapid expansion of the independent industry. This third piece ushers in a new stage of their work, building on two technically strong pieces to further assert their aesthetic philosophy.

A Collected Man is an authorised retailer for Petermann Bédat. If you would like to express your interest in the Reference 1825, please get in touch with one of our specialists.

If sold within the United Kingdom, this Petermann Bédat 1825 will be subject to 20% VAT

SHAPE OF CREATION

Moved recently to a new workshop in Renens, Switzerland, the Petermann Bédat space is refreshingly straightforward, having developed and refined their processes over the years. Packed full to the brim with workbenches and tools, the pair aim to expand and further hone their small team as their work develops.

While Petermann Bédat released their first watch in 2020, Gaël and Florian’s story stretches back much farther, as they met in 2007 as students at the Ecole d'Horlogerie de Genève. Their experience spans brands such as A. Lange & Söhne and Harry Winston, while their background in restoration is a key element of much of their work.

THE COLLECTION

What Makes Gratté Finishing So Special?

A unique edition of the 1967 Deadbeat Seconds, this watch features a deep burgundy dial paired with a striking gratté finishing, a complex pattern of brushstroke effects on metal.

Read the article

Brand:	Petermann Bédat
Model:	reference 1825
Movement:	calibre 233
Functions:	time-only
Features:	Laser-engraved solid gold dial, transparent green enamel
Case material:	rose gold
Case diameter:	38mm
Case thickness:	10.15mm
Lug-to-lug:	46.25mm
Crystal:	sapphire glass with anti-reflective coat
Strap:	Petermann Bédat brown alligator strap with rose gold pin buckle
Lug width:	18mm
Year:	2025
Accompanying materials:	Petermann Bédat box & papers

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Petermann Bédat
1825