Daniel Roth Chronograph Monopusher, Yellow Gold

Name: Chronograph Monopusher | Yellow Gold
Brand: Daniel Roth
SKU: WYG_D2377
Price: 52000.00 GBP
Availability: OutOfStock

This Daniel Roth Monopusher Chronograph is a rarely seen example in yellow gold. Combining a vintage Lemania 2220 movement, beautifully finished dial, and distinctive case design, this piece stands out as one of the most significant creations of Daniel Roth.

Worth Reading

In 1991, only two years after establishing his eponymous brand, Daniel Roth produced a small number of Monopusher Chronographs, limited to only 36 pieces in yellow gold and 16 in platinum. Roth retrieved a small number of Lemania 2220 movements from the ‘30s, which were traditionally used in pocket watches, and refinished them to the high standard which has come to be expected from the watchmaker. Indeed, the relatively large and expansive movement displays sharp Côtes de Genève, subtly bevelled edges, and masterfully polished components. Roth was perhaps one of the first independent watchmakers to integrate high-quality vintage ébauches into his creations, with this tradition later being carried on by the likes of Kari Voutilainen.

Cased in yellow gold, the watch bears a matching dial tone, with silvered chapter rings for the indexes and sub-dials. The varying textures, from the Clous de Paris in the centre to the brushed chapter rings, makes the dial visually intricate and refined. The watch is signed "DANIEL ROTH" at 12 o'clock and "NUMERO X" just below 6 o'clock, in the style of Roth's vintage inspirations. The movement displays the same number, in line with Roth’s practice of numbering dials and movements. The lance-shaped hands, a visual inspiration from the Abraham-Louis Breguet, are rendered in blued steel.

The double-ellipse case of the monopusher is extremely innovative in its execution for the time. Neither round nor rectangular, it balances the two different shapes, complemented by a stepped bezel and sharp, straight lugs. The monopusher on the right-hand side of the case repeats this double-ellipse shape, lending balance to the overall design. Interestingly, the case of this Monopusher Chronograph is larger than the other chronographs produced by Roth during this era, to accommodate for the larger Lemania 2220 ébauche.

Later on, after the watchmaker began to be less involved with the brand, 10 more of these movements were found and installed into Daniel Roth chronographs. These can be distinguished from the first batch of monopushers thanks to their swan-neck regulator, which was not included the first time round, and a less intricate dial design.

This particular example comes from the original owner and was first retailed in Pisa, Italy, as evidenced by the retail paperwork, which feature a special stamp. Overall, the condition of the watch is also excellent, with a slight discolouration having developed around the crown, pusher, and base of the case.

Specifications

Closer look

Brand:	Daniel Roth
Model:	Chronograph monopusher
Movement:	manual-winding calibre Lemania 2220
Functions:	hours, minutes, sub-seconds, monopusher chronograph
Features:	double-ellipse case, Clous de Paris guilloché dial, blued steel lance hands, display back
Case material:	yellow gold
Case diameter:	41mm x 38.5mm
Case thickness:	12mm
Lug-to-lug:	45mm
Crystal:	sapphire front & back
Strap:	Daniel Roth black alligator strap, Daniel Roth yellow gold pin buckle
Lug width:	21 x 18mm (curved)
Year:	1991
Accompanying materials:	Daniel Roth outer box & inner leather box, certificate of origin (signed & dated)

Condition

This Daniel Roth Chronograph is in excellent overall condition. Coming directly from the original owner, the watch has been worn sparingly. Only very light superficial marks are found on the case and lugs, with warm oxidation present throughout. The dial and hands are free from any signs of imperfections. All hallmarks and engravings on both the watch and buckle are crisp and well defined.

A service is recommended with the manufacturer, having not been closely examined by the brand since new. One can arrange with the brand for the future owner.

Warranty

All functions have been checked and remain functional, and the watch comes with a lifetime guarantee of authenticity from A Collected Man. Please note, owing to the value of this watch and the cost of servicing, we cannot offer a mechanical warranty on this occasion. This is an express deviation from our standard warranty policy below, and as found in our terms and conditions.

WHAT MAKES A NEO-VINTAGE WATCH?

As you might expect, what makes a watch neo-vintage is open to discussion. The logical place to start is at the end of the Quartz Crisis, in the aftermath of a period when the core purpose of mechanical watchmaking had come under threat. Tom Chng, the founder of the Singapore Watch Club, reckons that this event “gave the mechanical watch a new purpose to survive and thrive, not one of necessity, but desirability. For the industry at large, the 1980s was an era of glorious renaissance.” It’s the pieces from this period onwards that we consider to be neo-vintage, with the category probably no longer applying for anything which was made in the last fifteen years or so.

What makes these pieces, and many others, fall under the neo-vintage umbrella is that they combine both vintage and modern influences, by virtue of the transitional period in which they were produced. This tension is clear in several areas, notably aesthetics, materials, manufacturing techniques and the scale of production. At the higher end, things were moving from a more artisanal, hand-made approach to one which relied more heavily on machinery, technology, and innovation.