Urban Jürgensen has a rich history that goes back to the late 18th century. The manufacture’s namesake, Urban Jürgensen (1776-1830), along with his father Jürgen Jürgensen, have long been credited with introducing the watch industry to Denmark. Shortly after the birth of his son Urban in 1776, the senior Jürgensen moved to Le Locle in Switzerland to work with Jacques-Frédéric Houriet, laying the foundations for a Danish-Swiss connection which persevered well into the late 20th century.
Peter Baumberger acquired the brand in 1976 and together with master English watchmaker Derek Pratt, set about bringing the Urban Jürgensen name – and the legacy of elegant and complicated timepieces it conjures – to the modern era. Pratt of course is one of the most accomplished watchmakers of the 20th century and had long collaborated with the late Dr George Daniels. The two shared ideas and collaborated on more than one occasion. Worth noting is the contribution of a young Kari Voutilainen during these years. He is the current chief executive officer leading the renewed direction of the brand.
While the references that came before it featured calendar complications and power reserve indications, the Reference 5 was pared back to the very essentials – the business of indicating the hours and minutes. As such, it is the simplest watch produced in this golden era of the brand. The case was suitably proportioned – it measures 35mm across and just 7mm tall. However, it featured both details that marked this era of Urban Jürgensen – a richly, hand adorned dial and a self-winding calibre.
It is understood that around 150 examples of the Reference 5 were produced over a short production run in the early 1990s; equal numbers were produced in platinum, yellow and rose gold.
This example is forged from rose gold. Its rounded form, smooth and organic, features a stepped detail on the dial side. The rounded midcase features a dimple aperture that is home to the partially integrated knurled crown. The rounded, teardrop lugs originate from the midcase and turn down dramatically, keeping the overall dimensions of the watch conservative. The lugs are 20mm apart and furnished with a dark brown, alligator grained leather strap secured by a signed rose gold pin buckle. The closed casesback wears circular graining.
The simplicity of the dial hides extensive hand work. Crafted on a silver base, the outer edges feature diamond-style engine turning with a similar pattern applied horizontally in the central portion of the dial. The engraved chapters, both the minute plots or the Roman hours, are separated by sauté piqué rims as is traditional. Rose gold observatoire hands, finely hand finished, complete the picture. The bevelled inner aperture of the hours hand is mirror polished while the staff wears a rounded profile.
Hidden from view is the slim F. Piguet self-winding calibre 71. The lever escapement movement features 31 jewels and is adjusted to five positions. The full-size solid gold rotor is finely adorned while the bridges wear Côtes de Genève.
This example comes with its original outer and inner boxes as well as a certificate of authenticity from the brand.
The Reference 5, in rose gold is the very essence of Urban Jürgensen. Its simplicity is entirely consistent with its conservative proportions. Yet it holds within it extensive manual finishing as well as the modern convenience of a slim self-winding calibre. These qualities heighten its importance even amidst an impressive roster of early references from this illustrious era of the brand.
