The Voutilainen Cushion Shape Worldtime (CSW) TMZ can be traced back to the unique cushion-shaped pocket watch Kari and his daughter Venla Voutilainen created for Only Watch 2019. The watchmaker followed this with a scaled down wrist version with a titanium case and a world time complication that was integrated into its manually wound calibre TMZ 217. The silver dial was finished with several intricate patterns of engine turning carried out in Voutilainen’s in-house guilloché workshop.
Starting in 2023, the watchmaker put this basic formula, albeit in stainless-steel, into a limited production series of 10 pieces.
The stainless-steel case retains much of the nuance of the brand’s round cases references. Its perfectly square form, measuring 39 across, is composed of three parts. The stepped bezel on the dial side meets a marginally recessed midcase. The caseback, which has a simpler profile, also extends marginally over the footprint of the midcase. While both the bezel and the caseback wear circular brushing on top, they are polished in profile. This finish contrasts with the horizontal brushing of the midcase. The bezel and caseback bare the three-pin screws that secure the 12mm tall case. The caseback is etched with the brand mark and the limited edition serial number out of 10. The short lugs originate from midcase – they have an elegant, scalloped outer profiles that further minimise their form. The lugs curve down fairly sharply, keeping the overall case footprint compact. They stand 20mm apart and are furnished with a grey, alligator-grained leather strap with a signed, stainless-steel pin buckle.
The simple, monochrome appearance belies remarkable visual and textural depth. Starting from a solid base of silver, the dial wears several finishes. The outer edge is brushed while the interior portions of the dial wear engine turning. A rim of flinqué pattern is separated by a sector that bears the brand name as well as the ‘hand made’ mark. The innermost aspect is detailed with a light, ethereal wave pattern of engine turning with an unusual, almost holographic quality, shifting and turning with the light. These aspects are bathed in a coating of ruthenium, giving the dial an understated appearance.
The outer edge features two concentric rows of cities, including Môtiers – home of Voutilainen’s manufacture – as well as Kemi – the watchmaker’s hometown in Finland. The rotating world time sector goes from the light, brushed texture used for daytime to the dark lustrous finish employed for nighttime. The observatoire hours and minutes hands are silvered and features the brand’s signature heat-blued inserts; the bases of the hands are also similarly finished.
All functions are through the substantial, knurled crown. In the second position, the wearer can set the world time function by rotating the day-night disk. Pressing down the crown firmly while it is in the first position advances the hour hand in one-hour increments – this can be used to quickly adjust primary display that shows local time. The action of pushing the crown is robust and haptically satisfying. That all functions are crown-regulated is also a visual continuation of the integrated nature of the calibre. The mainspring offers 60 hours of reserve.
The calibre 216 TMZ in this reference is large, measuring 30mm across. It entirely integrates its world time complication, rather than wearing it modularly. The large balance, 13.5mm wide is free sprung and features four rose gold timing weights. The balance spring has a Grossman interior curve and a Philips exterior curve. The balance works with a new direct escapement architecture, with the watchmaker’s signature twin escape wheels. The wheels of the going train, crafted from rose gold, peek from under the German silver plate and bridges. Pulling the crown out stops the balance.
It is finely finished – the bridges wear Côtes de Genève while the edges are hand-finished to a mirror sheen. The balance bridge has a rounded profile and is polished. The ratchet wheel is black polished while the barrel wheel is solarised with a mirror-finished countersink. In fact, all visible jewels and screws feature mirror-polished countersinks. The baseplate wears perlage.
This example of the CSW TMZ comes with hand signed paperwork from the watchmaker, as well as its full set of inner and outer boxes. As an example of a marked evolution of the Voutilainen aesthetic, it is as significant as it is cohesive.
If sold within the United Kingdom, this Voutilainen CSW "Cushion Shape Worldtime" will be subject to 20% VAT
