The DB25 was first introduced in 2007, just five years into the brand’s story. One of the independent brand’s most versatile lines, it has played host to a number of complications and artistic expressions. However, perhaps none are more classical and restrained than the DB25QPARS8R.
The reference pairs a perpetual calendar complication with the larger of the case sizes from the line. Measuring 44mm across and standing 12.8mm tall, the case is fabricated from a warm rose gold. Three-part in its construction, the bezel is rounded, marginally extending beyond the profile of the slender midcase. The correctors for the calendar complication are integrated in the midcase – the one at 4 o’clock advances the months, the one at 8 o’clock manipulates the date, while the one at 10 o’clock helps set the moonphase. The midcase is also home to the dimpled and knurled crown; in the second position it helps quickset the date, while in the third position the wearer can adjust the time.
The caseback, with an overhang like the bezel's, is where the lugs originate. These have a complex form, tapering and terminating in the ogival detail typical of De Bethune’s designs. Another signature element, the hollowed-out lugs, are also present on this example. It serves to lighten the visual weight of the watch. The lugs are 24mm apart and feature a black grained, alligator-style strap secured by a rose gold pin buckle with the brand mark on the underside. The exhibition caseback, secured by five flathead screws, is high polished and bears hallmarks detailing the precious metal the case is formed of.
The anthracite dial, with gilt markings, is a suitable accompaniment to the rose gold case. The raised toroidal outer edge wears a chemin de fer minutes track as well as the Roman hours. The pad printing is voluminous and luscious. The central portion of the dial, marginally lower than the minutes and hours chapters, is adorned with a billowing wave-like guilloché, with the pattern segmented into twelve sectors corresponding to the hours. This kind of order is extended to the rest of the dial furniture as well – directly across from each other, at 12 and 6 o’clock, lie the moonphase and date subsidiary registers. Both are framed by toroidal edges. The brand’s signature bi-metal spherical moonphase is monochrome, and the gold disk on which the stars are engraved, is also coated in an anthracite shade. The moonphase is accurate to one lunar day every 122 years. The two windows for the month and day lie across from each other, at 9 and 3 o’clock respectively.
The rose gold feuille-style hands arch and angle down towards their respective chapters for ease of reading the time accurately.
Powering the watch is De Bethune’s self-winding calibre, the DB2324QP. It is equipped with a number of the brand’s cutting-edge innovations. The bridges are crafted from stainless-steel and presented both in the metal’s natural shade and also blued. Its self-regulating twin barrels yield an impressive five days of autonomy. The fast-moving balance, made of titanium and platinum, features a hairspring made of a beryllium and copper alloy. It is safeguarded by De Bethune’s tri-springed triple pare-chute shock protection system. The full sized bi-metal winding rotor has blued titanium arms and a platinum mass. The rotor is similarly protected from the effects of sudden shock by a coronet of four clusters of industrial rubies. This set up is also proprietary to De Bethune.
Technical aspects aside, the movement bridges showcase a range of finishes, from media blasting to brushed details. The platinum mass on the winding rotor is solarised. The winding rotor reveals a blued baseplate on which is detailed the reference number, brand mark and serial number.
The watch which comes with a grained black leather inner case as well as the red leather outer box. It has its original warranty paperwork from 2017 and its instruction manual. In this configuration of size, case metal and dial colourway, it is both robust and understated. It backs up a classical complication with the convenience of a shock tolerant self-winding calibre. The DB25 Perpetual Calendar does all this in De Bethune’s inimitable style.
If sold within the United Kingdom, this De Bethune DB25QP Perpetual Calendar will be subject to 20% VAT