The principle of symmetry has been adhered to by watch designers almost religiously for the past 100 years. It is obviously a logical base to build from when constructing a tool aimed at precision. However, in many ways, a wristwatch is quite unlike any other scientific device designed with a singular purpose.

It has always been just as much a lifestyle or fashion piece as well as a practical tool. While there have been sporadic attempts to imagine a visual language that is pared back and strictly functional, some watchmakers and jewellers have tried to break free from the constraints of shapes believed to be ergonomically suited to watchmaking.

One such era of unbridled creativity was the post-war period, leading into the Swinging Sixties and the early 1970s. While this era is marked by the works of jewellers such as Gilbert Albert and Andrew Grima and designers such as Richard Arbib, we posit that there was a wider willingness within watchmaking to experiment with shapes and forms during this period.

When speaking about asymmetry, in watches or otherwise, it is helpful to establish what the norm is and the reasons for it. Most modern watches with a crown are not entirely symmetrical in the first place, says Benoît Mintiens, who worked as an industrial designer before founding Ressence, but “most established designers will tell you they design by proportions. A well-designed product is a mixture of an uncountable number of considerations that lead to the final design. Proportions are key to having a product that appeals.”

While guided by principles such as the golden ratio, design by proportions and ergonomics, there is also another social aspect designers have to consider for a wristwatch, “[namely] the social impact of the watch on others”, says Mintiens. “To my astonishment, when I started Ressence I saw people testing a Zero Series by looking [at themselves wearing the watch] in the mirror. This was an eye-opener for me.” This under-studied social component has long been a driver of watch design. Another crucial factor is case integrity, aimed at functions such as its ability to protect the calibre and offer water an