Breguet 3230 Chronograph, Rose Gold

The rebirth of Breguet began in 1970, when brothers Jacques and Pierre Chaumet took over in the hopes of reinvigorating the brand and renewing the connection between the Breguet name and high-end watchmaking. Shortly thereafter, the brothers closed the French factory and moved production to the Vallée de Joux in Switzerland, the epicentre of Swiss watchmaking.

In order to restore the brand to its former glory, Jacques and Pierre would need a Master Watchmaker to help. They approached Daniel Roth, who’d demonstrated his talent over seven years working at Audemars Piguet, which he’d joined as the only watchmaker who didn’t come from Le Brassus, the brand’s historic home. Inspired by the work of the famous watchmaker, Roth agreed to help resuscitate the manufacture, though only after going back to school to further study Breguet’s archives and techniques.

The chronograph reference 3230 was one of the earliest pieces introduced, and is powered by the Lemania 2310 ébauche, a well-known calibre used by Patek Philippe and Roger Dubuis, among others. At the time the piece was produced, Breguet actually owned the Nouvelle Lemania manufacture, which they had purchased in 1991. Aesthetically, the calibre is finished to a very high standard. It features chamfering on all angles, polishing and decoration.

Most examples of the ref. 3230 and 3237 are housed in yellow gold, with this piece featuring a more unusual rose gold case, as confirmed by the "BR" section of the reference number marked on the paperwork. The case is typical of the Breguet style of wristwatches which Bodet and Roth helped cement. Classically sized at 36mm, it features straight lugs and a distinctive fluted middle section, reminiscent of a coin. The closed caseback is also a more rarely seen feature of these pieces, with this one displaying the watch’s serial number, which matches the one displayed on the dial.

The chronograph is in the style of a two-register chronograph, with a sharply executed guilloché hobnail pattern in the centre and silvered brushed chapter ring with printed numerals. This particular dial features an even patination throughout. In keeping with the traditional style they were trying to emulate, two cartouches are placed at 12 and 6 o’clock, featuring the maker’s name, Breguet, as well as the number of the watch respectively. Overall, the watch features many design cues that were cemented while Daniel Roth worked there, such as the engine-turned dials, coin-edged case, and distinctive blued Breguet hands.

The redesigned Lemania movement features a 21 jewel, straight-line lever escapement, a monometallic balance adjusted to 5 positions, a self-compensating Breguet spring and swan-neck micrometer regulator. Aesthetically, the calibre is finished to a very high standard. It features exquisite chamfering on all angles, polishing and decoration, in the form of Geneva striping.

Included are the original Breguet boxes and Certificate of Origin, stamped by Boit d'Or Gioielleria, Cuneo, Italy.

Closer look

Condition

This Breguet 3230 Chronograph is in excellent overall condition. The case and lugs show very light superficial marks and have been well preserved. The dial has developed an even and attractive warm hue throughout. The engravings on the solid case back and hallmarks on the coin edge mid-case are crisp and well defined.

Warranty

The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.