Roger Dubuis Hommage Chronograph, H40 56 O, White Gold

The history of Roger Dubuis is rich and complex, as Dubuis started his career in the 1950s working for Longines, before moving on to Patek Philippe’s complications department. From there he went his own way, starting his workshop in the ‘80s. Later on, in 1995, Dubuis would launch his eponymous brand driven by businessman Carlos Dias.

The first Roger Dubuis pieces were acclaimed by collectors because they channelled the traditional Genevan watchmaking that Patek Philippe embodied, paired with the watchmaker's signature stylistic flair. Dubuis’ inspiration was obvious in some of his choices, from seeking the Geneva Seal for his movements to his design of deployant buckles. The Hommage watches, as the name suggests, were a tribute to the great watchmakers of old, according to Dubuis. In 2003, after only eight years, the watchmaker left his eponymous brand. Though his output from these earliest days was limited, the design and quality of the pieces he produced have stood the test of time.

According to Dias, the initial intention was to actually limit each Hommage series to 25. Following the suggestion of a collector based in Asia, where the number eight is considered to bring good luck, Dias decided to limit each variant to 28 pieces instead.

Dubuis' chronographs typically appear in three sizes: 34, 37 and 40mm. As the name suggests, the Hommage H40 presents the most modern of these case dimensions. The Hommage Chronograph borrows from the heritage of vintage references such as the Patek Philippe 1463 and the unique 2512 as well as more modern iterations of the aesthetic such as the reference 5070. In fact, this Hommage Chronograph H40 bears much of the warmth and character that makes the white gold 5070 Saatchi Edition so sought after.
 
This Hommage Chronograph H40 pairs its classically styled white gold case with a subtle salmon dial featuring applied Breguet numerals and faceted indices. While the reference was also produced with a swirling engine turned salmon dial, it is decidedly more refined and restrained in the configuration it is seen in here.  

The high polished concave bezel has a subtle stepped detail and tips its hat to chronographs produced in the 1940s and ‘50s. This section meets a satinated midcase from which the lugs flow out. The lugs are satinated in profile and polished up top. The midcase is also home to the chronograph pusher that are designed to bring to mind the iconic Patek Philippe ref. 1463 ‘Tasti Tondi’. The crown is large and signed. The screwed down exhibition caseback has a polished rim that bears deep engravings detailing the brand mark and the place of origin – Geneva. This example also comes with the option of a closed caseback should the wearer opt for a more discreet appearance. The backs of the lugs are home to precious metal hallmarks. The watch comes on a brown, alligator-grained leather strap secured by a solid white gold signed deployant clasp.

The classic two-register layout, set against the attractive salmon backdrop, is wonderfully balanced. The tachymetre scale is printed in black for maximum contrast, as are the sector-style scales on the two subsidiary registers. The hours chapter features Breguet-style 12, 5, 6 and 7 markers, while the rest of the visible hours are marked by faceted markers. The skeletonised alpha-style hours and minutes hands are paired with a blued chronograph seconds indicator. A leaf-style heat-blued hand plies the 30-minute chronograph subsidiary register, visually tying the chronograph indicators together. The running seconds hand is also leaf-style.
 
The watch is powered by the calibre RD 56, based on the Lemania 2310, visible through the caseback. Likely regulated by Dubuis himself, it is finished to a standard befitting the Geneva Seal it wears. The set includes the original Geneva seal paperwork from 2000. The movement is a 21-jewel straight-line lever escapement, a monometallic balance adjusted to five positions, a self-compensating Breguet spring, and a swan-neck micrometre regulator. As indicated by the "Bulletin d'Observatoire" signature on the dial, this movement was tested for accuracy at the Besançon Observatory, which famously set far more exacting standards than the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC). It comes with hand-annotated paperwork attesting to this.

This complete example comes with its set of outer and inner boxes and user manual and original hang tag, in addition to the Geneva seal and Besançon paperwork.

This H40 represents a particularly attractive iteration of a classic chronograph aesthetic, channelled by one of the earliest independents makers. That it is made to modern sensibilities and comes as such a complete set only heightens its value among collectors of early Roger Dubuis.

Closer look

Condition

This Roger Dubuis Hommage Chronograph H40 is in excellent overall condition. The case and lugs remain crisp and sharp, with light superficial marks throughout, consistent with minimal wear over time. The dial, hands, and movement are free from any signs of imperfections and have been well preserved. The hallmarks on the reverse of the lugs, the additional solid caseback, and the deployment buckle are crisp and well defined.

Warranty

The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.