Introduced around 2000, just four years into the brand’s story, the Toric Tourbillon was Parmigiani Fleurier’s first attempt at the complex yet classical regulating device, long viewed as a rite of passage for fledgling independents. For its first outing, the brand’s Toric collection was judged to be most appropriate for a tourbillon – the line is of course inspired by the work of Abraham-Louis Breguet and features a range of classic complications, alongside more inventive ones. The name references the torus, a geometric shape that is a repeating motif in several of the line's pieces. Signature visual elements included stepped and fluted bezels, a detail inspired by classical Greek and Roman Doric columns, as well as the curved line of the Golden Ratio.
 
The 40mm platinum case features the signature stepped and knurled bezel, complete with coin-edge decoration. The polished aspects contrast with the knurled details, making this aspect exceedingly visually satisfying. The midcase, the widest portion of the case, is rounded and classical, and pebble-like to the touch. The fluted crown is topped with a sapphire cabochon. The rim of the display caseback, held by four screws, is also polished and wears engravings detailing the serial number and the words ‘piece unique’. The backs of the straight, curved down lugs feature precious metal hallmarks. On the 20mm wide lugs is a dark navy saffiano leather strap secured by a platinum pin buckle with the brand’s signature fluted detail.
 
The dial side reveals the watch’s unique character. As is expected, the Toric Tourbillon exposes the movement through an open-worked set up. However, the bridge at the top that acts as the dial is adorned with an ornate, water lily motif. It reveals its intricate details and the skill of the steady hands that achieved it, on close examination. This motif is repeated on the two islands that anchor the tourbillon bridge. These two bridges are separated from the three-quarter bridge by a meandering cleft. The bevelled edges of the bridges are finished with mirror-polishing. The gaps between the bridges reveal the perlage the dial is adorned with.
 
The rounded tourbillon bridge is black polished and rounded in profile. At its centre is a gold chaton with the jewel on the which the one-minute tourbillon pivots. The three-armed carriage with the balance wheel, as well as those of the going train, wearing an aureate appearance.
On the periphery of the three-quarter bridge is a partial chapter of drilled minutes. At 6 o’clock separating the words “Swiss” and “made” on the brushed minutes chapter are three red spade details with dots in between them. 
 
The hands, heat-hued, feature spade ends. Rather interestingly, the minute hand sits below the hour hand, a function of the calibre inverting the original Girard-Perregaux pocket watch movement from the 19th century.
 
In the early days of the manufacture, Parmigiani chose to rely on high-quality ébauches, which were modified, assembled, and finished in-house. This reference PF00487 makes use of a Girard-Perregaux Three Bridges 9900 ébauche, designated calibre 28001. Initially created for pocket watches, this movement has a historic lineage that stretches back to the 19th century, when it won first place in the 1867 and 1889 Paris World Exhibitions as well as the Neuchatêl Observatory Prize in 1911 – one of the most prestigious competitions to determine the accuracy of certain timepieces. The movement was miniaturised to wristwatch size in 1986 and presented at Baselworld five years later.
 
The view on the movement side, while minimal, is suitably finished with perlage on the baseplate. The irregular pentagon-shaped bridge covers a majority of the wheels of the going train, while the keyless works and the ratchet wheel and wheel of the mainspring barrel are exposed. It wears engravings of the brand logo as well as technical details such as the six positions the movement is adjusted to as well as the jewel count.
 
This example showcases the versatility of the Toric aesthetic. This unique, engraved interpretation would sit comfortably alongside a collection of more classical executions of the line. 

If sold within the United Kingdom, this Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Tourbillion Unique Piece will be subject to 20% VAT

Closer look

Condition

This Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Tourbillion Unique Piece is in very good overall condition. The case and lugs show light superficial marks consistent with minimal wear over time. More specifically, on the reverse of the upper right lug, there is a small ding. The hand-engraved water lily motif dial and blued hands have been well preserved without any signs of imperfections. The hallmarks on the reverse of the lugs are crisp and well defined.

Warranty

The watch comes with a lifetime guarantee of authenticity from A Collected Man