Platinum is a rare metal to find on any Patek Philippe sports watch model. Notably, every inch of the case is platinum, from the case to the bracelet and even the bracelet pins themselves. The use of this metal invokes a truly luxurious impression that might seem jarring for a typical sportswatch, but on the reference 3800, it has an effortless presence on the wrist that does not feel at odds with the style of the watch.
In many ways, the reference 3800 is a scaled-down version of the original reference 3700, retaining many of the same features, from the ridged dial to the overall proportions. The stainless steel bracelet and signed clasp are excellently finished, with angular, bevelled, and polished edges. At 37.5mm in diameter and only 7.5mm thick, the Nautilus 3800 case is well-proportioned and wears comfortably on the wrist.
The blue ridged dial displays horizontal grooves with a deep blue and grey colouration. The applied hour markers are tritium-filled, with "dot" outer-minute divisions and a date aperture at 3 o’clock. The original date disc remains fitted to the watch, a white date disc featuring a subtle serif font. Evidence suggests that the dial was manufactured by Stern Créations, the storied manufacturer that also produced dials for the Patek Philippe Nautilus and the Rolex “Stella” models, among others.
In this example, the index markers and hands are manufactured from white gold, as indicated by the "σ · SWISS · σ" signature at the bottom of the dial. Three types of signatures exist for the reference: “σ SWISS σ", "σ · SWISS · σ" and “SWISS”. This is to signify the use of gold on the dial in the form of applied markers.
As a result of Patek Philippe's decision to develop its own in-house, ultra-slim movement, the reference 3800 features an updated calibre 335 S C (for “seconde centrale” or “central second”), replacing the previous calibre 28-255C movement. The calibre 335 S C features 29 jewels, a straight-line lever escapement, a monometallic balance adjusted to cold, heat, isochronism, and 5 positions, a self-compensating flat balance spring, and a shock absorber mechanism. Furthermore, the solid-gold rotor is finished in classic Patek Philippe style with circular Geneva stripes.
In this example, the hallmarks are found behind the upper lugs and on the butterly deploying clasp. Rather curiously, each of the extra links that accompany this piece is also individually hallmarked, which is very rarely done.