The C187 tourbillon is perhaps among one of Roth’s most recognisable works, as it represents a distillation of a number of the maker's signature design cues. These are elements he honed as part of his role helping resurrect Breguet and ones that he continued to employ at his eponymous independent brand since its founding in 1989. 
 
Chief among these is the double ellipse case, seen here in yellow gold. Its two-part construction, with rounded bezels along the dial and the display caseback, is marked by the pronounced lip where the former meets the latter. This detail is only interrupted by the thin, straight lugs, that subtly camber inward. The overall effect of the case is wholly classical, yet original to Roth. It is for this reason that the brand’s recent resurrection has been announced with a similar design.
 
On the dial side, the subsidiary time display is framed by a sharp, pinstripe guilloché. The subsidiary register is finished with circular brushing, with sauté piqué separating the chapters of minute plots and Roman numeral hours. This detail repeats itself in several places, being employed to delineate aspects of the dial. The hands, with arrow pointers, are heat hued. The bottom half of the dial, which is dedicated to the tourbillon, is framed by flowing lines that detail the brand name and the serial number. These lie on a level lower than the time display and the adjoining concentric semi-circular scales, across which the tourbillon completes a revolution, once every minute. Developed while Roth was still working with Breguet, the tourbillon was a natural debut for independent watchmakers, as the complication has long been a rite of passage for those looking to announce themselves. Yet laying the seconds scales in layers such that they work in conjunction with the three differently sized arms of the tourbillon to indicate the passage of seconds, was as interesting as it was functional. It is worth noting the cleft in the case at 6 o’clock, designed to accommodate the longest of the tourbillon's arms.
 
The tourbillon is anchored by the twin-armed bridge, which is rounded and highly polished. They stand on two rounded bases that originate at the baseplate and are decorated with hand engraving, with complementing wave motifs meeting each other in circular patterns. It is beautifully finished, with the gold balance wheel framed by black-polished components of the carriage and escapement.
  
This piece is a rare “double-face” example that has an open caseback, for the express purpose of creating a canvas to further display the style of fine hand engraving seen flanking the tourbillon on the dial side. Most of the maker’s tourbillons, which do not possess complications, usually have closed casebacks.
 
The baseplate that almost entirely frames the movement-side view is hand engraved. The circular shapes formed by the wave motif are replicated with remarkable consistency, interrupted only by a handful of visible screws and working jewels. The only other notable interruption is the circular window for the tourbillon, which is framed from this view by a fleur-de-lis-shaped bridge. The Baroque detail is a reference to the maker’s French roots. The bridge is decorated with beautiful floral engraving, with visible jewels further adding to its ornamental appearance. 
 
Roth worked very closely with Lemania during his time at Breguet, and so it comes as no surprise that the movement underlying the C187 is based on the Lemania 387 ébauche. The calibre 387 was the result of this relationship, with the manufacturer creating a prototype based on Roth's design and then serially producing the movement.
 
This C187 Tourbillon holds a special place in Roth’s early offering, as a watch pared back in its mechanics but enhanced by the watchmaker’s mastery of finishing.

If sold within the United Kingdom, this Daniel Roth Tourbillon C187 will be subject to 20% VAT

Closer look

Condition

This Daniel Roth Tourbillon is in very good condition overall. Superficial marks can be found on the bezel and case consistent with minimal wear. The pinstriped dial shows natural signs of oxidation and age throughout. The hallmarks on the back of the lugs are crisp and well defined, as well as the hand engraved silver plate visible through the open case back.

Warranty

The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.