was released later than the Royal Oak
by Audemars Piguet
and offered a different take on the idea of a luxury sports watch, though - like the Royal Oak
(equally designed by Mr Genta) - it was made in stainless steel.
The reference 3800/1J
(seen in this example), was first produced in the early 1980s, as an alternative to the ‘Jumbo’ 3700
- with a reduced diameter of 37.5mm - in response to the initial slow start of the original reference. As with all Nautilus
examples, the reference 3800/1
features an integrated, water-tight "porthole" case, famously penned by Mr. Gérald Genta
In essence, the reference 3800
is a scaled-down version of the 3700
. The watch displays a similar yellow gold ridged dial, with horizontal grooves
(as seen in the 3700/1
), along with applied tritium-filled hour markers, white outer-minute divisions, polished baton hands (with luminous inserts) and a date aperture at 3 o’clock. Complimenting the dial, is the rarer, dark-coloured date disc
With this example, the index-markers and hands are manufactured from yellow gold, indicated by the lower case Greek letter ‘sigma’
at the bottom of the dial. The ‘sigma’ signature was a visual declaration of the use of precious materials, and was adopted by a number of manufactures throughout the 70’s - emphasising the inherent value of a high-quality, mechanical watch.
Like the ref. 3700
, the case and integrated bracelet are excellently finished, with angular, beveled and polished edges. The polished bezel and case edges fantastically-contrast with the brushed surface of the case and bracelet. This particular 3800J features a seldom-seen "thin" bracelet, where the individual links are slimmer than those commonly found
on most Nautilus 3800
watches. The watch also features a white gold deployante buckle
, as indicated by the '750' stamp visible on one of the blades. At 37.5mm in diameter, and only 7.5mm thick, this 3800 Nautilus
case is an elegant twist of perspectives and size, and wears comfortably on the wrist.
As a result of Patek Philippe's
decision to develop its own in-house, ultra-slim movement
, the reference 3800
features an updated calibre 335 S C
(for “seconde centrale” or “central second”), replacing the previous calibre 28-255C
movement. The calibre 335 S C
features 29 jewels, a straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance; adjusted to cold, heat, isochronism, and 5 positions, a self-compensating flat balance spring and shock absorber mechanism. Furthermore, the solid-gold rotor is finished in classic Patek Philippe
style, with circular Geneva
This Patek Philippe Nautilus 3800/1J
comes with Extract from the Archives (to follow). It comes with its original 3800/001
yellow gold bracelet (with "thin" links) and signed white gold clasp.
Viewings can be arranged in Central London by appointment.