Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph, 3970EG-025, White Gold

Patek Philippe laid the foundation for its marque complication, the perpetual calendar chronograph, with the Reference 1518 in 1941. It followed this with the Reference 2499 that furthered the brand’s reputation for this combination of complications. The Reference 3970, coming more than years after the 1518, in 1984 carried on this tradition till 2004.

This example is from the fourth series of production and as such distinguished by several characteristics. In some cases, these characteristics were shared with the third series. The fourth series was produced between 1994 and 2004, bringing the Reference 3970 to a close.

Chief among these distinguishing characters is the use of faceted baton hour and minutes hands (instead of the feuille-style variety seen in the first and second series) as well as matching faceted large and small hour markers. In addition to these, the printing on the dial had a higher contrast quality to it, and the font used on the day and month wheels were noticeably sized up and were typically in sans serif, even if this last detail wasn’t a rule. However, the fourth series, of which 2,000 examples exist, typically came with matching deployant clasps, which this example also features. In addition, the movement and case numbers also mark this as one of the final series of the 3970. 

This 3970EP-027 has a 36mm case in white gold, with a rounded midcase that is home to the correctors for the calendar complication as well as the rounded pushers for the chronograph. The large knurled crown wears the Calatrava cross. The concave bezel is a classical detail while this example features an exhibition caseback topped with a removable, screwed on solid caseback. The long, straight lugs curve down sharply. They feature a subtle stepped detail. The top left lug features the precious metal hallmark on its outer flank. The watch comes on a leather strap secured by a signed deployant clasp in white gold. 

The smooth black dial features two equisized registers at 9 and 3 o’clock – the former displays running seconds as well as the time on a 24 hour scale, while the latter shows 30 minutes of elapsed time and also integrates the leap year indicator. Both these registers are marginally sunken and are two-part in their construction. The twin windows at 12 o’clock display the day and the month, which are in German, in keeping with the country in which this was sold. Meanwhile, the register at 6 o’clock displays the date and also contains within it the moonphase crafted from sapphire glass. All the information is printed in white for a greater contrast, and the watch features a simple seconds scale printed in white with Arabic numerals at five second intervals, instead of a tachymeter scale. Each of these elements converge to create an effect that is historically inspired but clearly made to high modern standards. 

Powering it is the manually wound Calibre CH 27-70 Q based on the Lemania calibre 2320, albeit without the swan neck regulator the èbauche featured. As is to be expected, the vertical clutch chronograph movement is mechanically robust and finished to Patek Philippe’s standards. It bears the Geneva seal which the brand was still using at this time before it transitioned to the Patek Philippe seal after 2009. 

The watch is accompanied by a full complement of materials, including its original wooden box and a Certificate of Origin detailing that the watch was sold by Juweller Ruschenbach in Dortmund, Germany. There also feature more unusual offerings such as a pamphlet detailing Patek Philippe's complicated watches at the time as well as a collector's library issue. Part of this is also a copy of a Patek Philippe service receipt dated back to 2019. This example from the final series of the 3970 is understated both in the combination of its elements and thanks to the classical proportions of the reference. This classicality is offset by its modern production and how it feels on the wrist. 

What truly sets this watch apart is its exceptional condition. It remained sealed for many years after its original sale and was only recently unsealed for servicing by Patek Philippe in 2019. Since then, it has been worn very lightly and it remains in a condition close to how it was when first sold, albeit with a few very light signs of wear. It still retains the original sharpness of the bezel, the crisp edges of the lugs, and the clear hallmarks on the reverse, all of which highlight the superb quality of the 3970 case. Accompanied by its original paperwork, product materials, hangtags, spare solid case back, corrector pin, and a copy of the 2019 service receipt, the watch stands out as a truly superb specimen, with rare German date discs corresponding with the retailer stamp on the original paperwork.

Closer look

Condition

This Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph 3970EG is in excellent overall condition. The case and lugs show very light signs of wear, only on the surface of the material, with slightly more noticeable imperfections on the bezel between 4, 5 and 6 o’clock. Light swirls are visible through a loupe under good lighting conditions. The dial, hands, and movement remain free from any signs of imperfections.

Accompanied by its original paperwork, product materials, hangtags, spare solid case back, corrector pin, and a copy of the 2019 service receipt, the watch stands out as a truly superb specimen, with rare German date discs corresponding with the retailer stamp on the original paperwork.

Warranty

The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.