An Iconic Movement
Throughout its history, Vacheron Constantin has designed and produced a few different variants of the manual-wind column-wheel chronograph, considered to be the most classic approach to the complication. However, though these types of pieces were prevalent during the mid-20th century, they became much more scarce with the advent of the Quartz Crisis, when the very existence of complicated watches came under threat.
That being said, in the face of this existential threat, a few manufactures turned to the mechanical chronograph as a way to showcase their horological craft, and hopefully ensure their survival. At the time, in the '80s, the Lemania 2310 was one of the few compelling ébauches at their disposal. As a result, it became the foundation for some of the most noteworthy pieces produced during the late 20th century, from Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin and Roger Dubuis, among others.
Vacheron Constantin first began using the Lemania ébauche in 1989, labelling it internally as the calibre 1140. In 1995, they introduced the reference 47102, which is perhaps their most visually dramatic take on the refined manual-wind movement, which is skeletonised from the front and back. The calibre itself sits center stage, showcasing the balance wheel, levers, and bridges.
The tradition of skeletonised watches dates back to 1760, when the French watchmaker André Charles Caron revealed the inner workings of a watch for customers to view by peeling back the watch dial. Since then, skeletonised watches have only begun to pick up in popularity over the last few years, demonstrating both the watchmaker’s skill and a growing public fascination with how watches work.
The Design
With its ornate, skeletonised design, this Vacheron Constantin reference 47102 is an intricately made piece that lays the secrets of watchmaking bare. From the dial to the open caseback, the watch creates space for the interplay of light and metal, providing a captivating visual depth. The exposed mechanics display an impressive level of hand-finishing, with vertical brushing, mirror polish and bevelling visible on most of the surfaces. Many of the components, both at the front and back, feature a traditional hand-engraving in a floral pattern, which is subtle and refined.
The hour and minute hands are executed in a clear, legible shape, whilst the seconds hand is in black, for improved legibility. The 30-minute and 60-second subdials are balanced delicately on either side of the dial, while an outer chapter ring circles the dial, marking the hours. The case is made of out of platinum, with the welded lugs and domed-bezel profile giving the watch a pared back profile, which contrasts with the complex movement housed within.
The Movement
The skeletonised and hand-engraved Lemania 2310 is the clear star of the show in this piece. Already considered one of the most important movements of the 20th century, given that it was used frequently by Patek Philippe, Roger Dubuis, and Vacheron Constantin, it is given pride of place here with ornate engraving, beautifully chamfered angles, in addition to further polishing and decoration.
This is a nickel-finished lever movement with 21 jewels, a monometallic balance adjusted to 5 positions, self-compensating Breguet spring and swan-neck micrometer regulator.
The Set
This Vacheron Constantin is accompanied by a 19mm bespoke grey grained leather strap, the original alligator strap by Vacheron Constantin and the corresponding platinum tang buckle.
If sold within the United Kingdom, this Vacheron Constantin Ref. 47102 will be subject to 20% VAT. Viewings are currently suspended for the time being.
