Submariner | 1680 | Steel
The Rolex Submariner was announced to the world in a typically genius marketing move by the brand - affixing a specially created version of the watch (known as the "Deep Sea Special”) to the hull of Auguste Piccard’s submarine, in 1953.
Since this introduction, over 60 years ago, the Submariner has become so closely associated with Rolex’s famous ‘Coronet’ logo, that the longstanding aspiration of owning a Rolex watch, is often inextricably linked with that of owning a Submariner. Its iconic status and importance to the brand has lead to constant reinvention and modernisation.
The reference 1680 (as seen in this example) was first introduced the late 1960s, and was the first Submariner to feature a date function. The reference 1680 was introduced over 10 years after the very first Submariner (in 1953) and was the eventual successor to one of Rolex’s longest serially produced references, the 5513. For over a decade, the word 'Submariner' was depicted in red script on the dial of the 1680, earning many earlier examples the “single red” moniker. Over the years, Rolex Submariners have been worn by a host of famous people, from James Bond to Steve McQueen, and thus, it is no surprise that the 1680 is seen by many as one of the model's quintessential references.
This vintage, 1680 “single red” Submariner from 1973, encapsulates this idea in the best possible way. It comes as a full-set, with its original inner and outer boxes (with ‘1680’ sticker), punched guarantee paperwork, punched guarantee booklet, hang tags and accompanying booklets. The watch also comes on its 9315 folded-link Oyster bracelet (380 end-links), with matching clasp (2 72) and divers' extension. This watch was previously sold by Andrew Shear, of Sheartime (you can see it in his archive here).
The MK4 dial of this 1680 is in exceptionally good condition, has a matte black finish, tritium index markers, with classic 'ROLEX’ and ‘OYSTER PERPETUAL’ – ‘SUBMARINER' – ‘660 ft = 200m’ text referenced on it. The ‘Submariner’ text is printed in red, consistent with MK4 designation, while the original date-disc has ‘open’ 6s and 9s. The original tritium index plots and ‘Mercedes’ hands have aged to a creamy patina. It also has its original Rolex crown and black, rotating bezel, with sixty-minute graduation and original pearl insert. On the case-back, the watch is personalised with the engraving 'Kurt Brandenburg'. Overall, this watch is excellently preserved, which only adds to its appeal.
Inside the watch, it houses Rolex’s Calibre 1570/5 bi-directional, self-winding movement. The mechanism features a lever escapement, 26 jewels, mono-metallic balance and a KIF shock-absorber, beating at a rate of 19,800 A/h, with a power-reserve of 42 hours.
The evolution of the Rolex Submariner has inspired some of history’s most important and reliable tool watches, surviving the harshest of conditions. There aren’t many mechanical timepieces that have contributed more to the advancement of enduring design, nor any that more clearly defined Rolex’s reputation for excellence. Many have tried to replicate its success, but no manufacturer since has consistently produced watches able to withstand everyday wear as well as a Rolex, owing much of their success to a unique market niche that the ‘Oyster’ case helped define.
This watch is accompanied by its original Rolex inner and outer boxes (with ‘1680’ sticker), punched guarantee paperwork, punched guarantee booklet (dated 1973), hang tags, accompanying booklets. It also comes with a service guarantee from Swedish-based Authorised Distributor 'Rob. Engström AB', from 2011.
Viewings can be arranged in Central London by appointment.
|Model:||Submariner Ref. 1680|
|Movement:||mechanical automatic Calibre. 1570/5|
|Functions:||date, hours, minutes, centre seconds|
|Features:||unrestored matte dial, red Submariner writing|
|Case:||40mm stainless steel|
|Bracelet:||Rolex Oyster riveted bracelet|
|Box & papers:||original inner and outer boxes (with ‘1680’ sticker), punched guarantee paperwork, punched guarantee booklet, hang tags, accompanying booklets, service guarantee (dated 2011)|
The case of this 1680 Submariner is seemingly unpolished and in excellent vintage condition, with nicely-preserved thick lugs and original bevels intact. Signs of wear are visible in photography. The original MK4 open dial, with creamy luminous index markers, has perfectly matching original hands. At 12 o'clock, there's a slight breakage in the lume (visible in photography). The black rotating bezel, with sixty-minute graduation, is well preserved and has its original pearl insert. On the case-back, the watch is personalised with the engraving 'Kurt Brandenburg'. The watch comes with its original Rolex inner and outer boxes (with ‘1680’ sticker), punched guarantee paperwork, punched guarantee booklet, hang tags and accompanying booklets - all of which, have been very well kept. It also comes with a service guarantee (dated 2011) from Rob. Engström AB. It’s guaranteed for authenticity and comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man.
All of our pre-owned watches have undergone thorough mechanical inspections, including being ultrasonically cleaned, serviced and resealed if appropriate and tested for at least four days, to ensure they meet our highest timekeeping standards. Our pre-owned and vintage watches, unless stated otherwise, are covered by a full or a limited twenty-four month warranty. For example, due to their age, some vintage watches should not be subjected to the same conditions as when they were new. Please see our Terms & Conditions for further information.
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