F. P. Journe
Chronomètre Optimum | platinum

Black Label

Regular price

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F. P. Journe
Chronomètre Optimum | platinum

Black Label

Regular price

The Chronomètre Optimum is a testament to François-Paul Journe’s watchmaking philosophy; to design and manufacture timeless watches that will still function 200 years later, much like his immediate works after graduating, restoring 18th and 19th century marine chronometers and pocket watches. 

The Chronomètre Optimum

It was in the the late 1980s, when François-Paul Journe envisioned the Chronomètre Optimum to be the watch that he would design for himself - “with three-hands, two mainsprings and a remontoir d'égalité”. It was in 2001 that the original concept for the Chronomètre Optimum was reworked, taking over 10 years to reach production in 2012. 

In the design, Monsieur Journe used familiar pieces from the Chronomètre Souverain and Tourbillon. Like the Souverain, the Optimum utilises a double-barrel layout, operating in parallel. Borrowing from the tourbillon, the Optimum uses the one-second rementoir d'egalité system. The latter is displayed within the small aperture on the dial side, and it provides constant force to the escapement, acting as a transmission and balancing system for the transfer of power between the mainspring and the escapement. The patented, EBHP direct-impulse bi-axial escapement functions without any oil or any form of lubricants. Connected to this, a "natural" dead-beat seconds, displayed on the caseback. 

The combination of these systems offers a more stable delivery of energy to the movement. According to Journe himself, the Optimum is thus the ultimate chronometer, achieved by the maximum possible reduction of internal friction in the movement. 

The manual-winding, Calibre 1510 is made from 18k rose gold, with Côtes de Genève embellishments, constructed with 44 jewels, oscillating at a rate of 21,600 vibrations per hour. As expected from F. P Journe, the movement is expertly finished and elaborately decorated, with contrasts established between the circular graining on the baseplate and Genevan stripes on the bridges.  

The Black Label Collection

The Black Label Collection was created exclusively for existing F. P Journe clients, with each of the models within the series distinguished by their platinum cases and black lacquer dials - the latter, seen only in the Black Label Collection and Boutique Edition. Only twelve pieces are received by the boutiques in any year, with just two pieces for each model in the collection.

The Design

Sized at a contemporary 40mm, this Black Label Chronomètre Optimum features a rounded bezel, thin lugs and the manufactures' signature ‘flat crown’ with a rope-like pattern, made larger for the Optimum. The entire watch is polished and mirror finished, while the crown itself is engraved. The solid gold dial is black nickel plated and coated in lacquer, displaying a separate whitened silver guilloché dial for the hours and minutes, along with a running-seconds at 9 o’clock.

The words "Invenit et Fecit" are inscribed above the two subsidiary dials (Latin for “Invented and Made”) in classic F.P Journe style - a nod to signing conventions of a century ago. The power-reserve indicator is located a 6 o’clock, heading from 0 to 40+. Impressively, the Chronomètre Optimum has a power-reserve of 70 hours, with 50 full-hours possible without any loss of amplitude.

The Set

This 40mm, platinum F. P. Journe Black Label Optimum watch is in excellent condition, fitted to one of our Helsinki straps with curved-ends, measuring 20 x 19mm. The set also includes the original inner and outer boxes, the manufacture's Black Label Certificate and the alligator strap from F. P. Journe.

Viewings can be arranged in Central London by appointment.

Brand: F. P. Journe
Model: Chronomètre Optimum Black Label - Souverain Collection
Movement: manual-winding Calibre 1510
Functions: power reserve, hours, minutes, sub-seconds, dead-beat seconds
Features: black nickel-plated dial, whitened silver guilloche subsidiary dial, remontoir d'égalité, display-back
Case: 40 mm platinum
Crystal: sapphire front and back
Strap: smoked-grey Helsinki nubuck leather strap, black alligator strap from F. P. Journe with platinum tang buckle 
Lug/buckle width: 20/19mm
Year: 2015
Box & papers: full set - box and papers
This Black Label F. P Journe Chronomètre Optimum watch is in excellent condition and has perfect mechanical functionality. The watch is currently undergoing testing at the manufacture in Geneva, and will be available within the coming weeks. It's accompanied by its original Black Label Certificate from the manufacture, dated 2015, as well as the original box (to be delivered). This watch comes with an original black F. P Journe alligator strap; our smoked-grey Helsinki nubuck leather strap and a matching platinum tang buckle

All of our pre-owned watches have undergone thorough mechanical inspections, including being ultrasonically cleaned, serviced and resealed if appropriate and tested for at least four days, to ensure they meet our highest timekeeping standards. Our pre-owned and vintage watches, unless stated otherwise, are covered by a full or a limited twenty-four month warranty. For example, due to their age, some vintage watches should not be subjected to the same conditions as when they were new. Please see our Terms & Conditions for further information. 

All of our new watches are covered by the warranty from the original manufacturer. Please contact us for further information.

We offer complimentary worldwide delivery on our watches. If ordering from overseas, delivery will depend on the value of the timepiece and the destination. All import taxes and duties are the responsibility of the buyer.

If ordering from the UK before 1 PM, your watch will be sent the same working day. The courier will depend on the value of the watch, with all watches delivered the next working day.

Please note that pre-owned goods (in the United Kingdom) are subject to a marginal rate of VAT, which can not be reclaimed. For further information, please see here

You can cancel your order without giving any reason, within 14 days from the day the watch has been delivered to you.

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