Launched in 1978, the Quantième Perpétuel was the world’s thinnest automatic perpetual calendar. Created during a time when the watchmaking industry was battling to stay afloat amidst the Quartz Crisis, the Quantième Perpétuel fought against the tides of change to uphold traditional watchmaking techniques.
The lines of the Quantième Perpétuel were penned by Jacqueline Dimier, who is considered by some as the protégé of the legendary Gérald Genta. The reference 25657 was produced between 1982 and 1993, making it among the earliest of the Quantième Perpétuel models. During that period, 362 examples were made in rose gold, versus the 1,309 pieces produced in yellow gold.
The perpetual calendar indications are laid out in an intuitive manner. The date and day are shown at three and nine o’clock respectively, with the months displayed at twelve o’clock. A moonphase indication is placed at six o’clock, with graduations for the moon position just above. The “Audemars Piguet” font is flat and restrained, imbuing this piece with a certain vintage appeal. Later versions of the same reference are known to have the more contemporary font, giving them a distinctively more modern appearance.
All of the subdials are recessed, which gives a satisfying level of depth to the overall design and creates some interesting effects when it interacts with the light. This is another subtle feature which is lost in subsequent iterations. Evidence suggests that the dial was manufactured by Stern Créations, the storied manufacturer which also produced dials for the Patek Philippe Nautilus and the Rolex “Stella” models, among others. The rose gold stick hands provide excellent legibility against the white background.
This Quantième Perpetuel 25657 is powered by the Caliber 2120/2, derived from Jaeger-LeCoultre’s legendary ultra-thin JLC 920 movement. The Caliber 2120 was an initial project of Jaeger LeCoultre in 1967, funded and contributed by Audemars Piguet, and famous for its adoption by Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin.
If sold within the United Kingdom, this Audemars Piguet Quantième Perpétuel will be subject to 20% VAT