Perpetual Calendar | Salmon dial | Grey gold
In 1875, Jules Louis Audemars and Edward Auguste Piguet founded the Swiss watch manufacturing company Audemars Piguet in Les Brassus, Vallée de Joux. In 1955, the brand began production of its first series of perpetual calendar wristwatches to feature a leap year indication. A specialist in the manufacture of complications since it was established, Audemars Piguet continued to produce a variety of high-quality perpetual calendars throughout the late 70s to the early 2000s, considered some of the most impressive of the modern era.
This rare, white-gold, salmon dial example perfectly illustrates why the Quantieme Perpetual is so underrated. It’s understated both in styling and size - modest (by today's standards) at 36 mm - with a slim case matched by an ultra-thin, automatic perpetual calendar movement. The grey-gold case features a stepped bezel and short, down-tuned lugs, which work proportionately well together. On the reverse, the watch is highly decorated - displaying brushed and satin surfaces, along with finely-engraved markings.
The sub-dial at 3 o'clock shows the date, in a slightly recessed sub-register, giving depth to the otherwise lightly-textured, salmon dial. In a similar fashion, the days of the month are placed at 9 o'clock, with the months of the year at 12. The moon-phase is placed at six o'clock, with graduation for moon age above. The salmon dial is further accented with grey-gold, applied index markers - corresponding harmoniously with Audemars Piguet’s ‘stick’ hands. The index markers and hands are subtle in form, complementing the dial tone perfectly.
This Quantieme Perpetual Automatique is powered by the AP caliber 2120/2, derived from Jaeger-LeCoultre’s legendary ultra-thin JLC 920 calibre movement. The caliber 2120 was an initial project of Jaeger LeCoultre in 1967, funded and contributed by Audemars Piguet, and famous for its adoption by Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin. The ultra-thin automatic 2120/2 calibre features 38 working jewels, Gyromax balance and four ruby wheels to support the full-diameter rotor, which runs on a beryllium rail for stability. The skeletonised rotor is decoratively engraved and edged with 21-carat gold, to increase the oscillating mass. The AP calibre 2120 remains the thinnest full-rotor self-winding movement in the world, considered by many as one of the most technically refined wrist-watch movements ever made.
This watch is accompanied by an Audemars Piguet box and Extract from the Archives. It comes with a silky grey/blue suede strap, an original alligator strap, and corresponding grey-gold tang buckle.
Viewings can be arranged in Central London by appointment.
|Model:||Quantieme Perpetual Calendar|
|Movement:||mechanical automatic AP Calibre 2120/2|
|Functions:||perpetual calendar: month, date, day, moon-phase; hours, minutes|
|Features:||display back, gold hands, salmon dial, engraved rotor|
|Case:||36mm 18-carat grey-gold|
|Crystal:||sapphire front and back|
|Bracelet:||blue saffiano strap with corresponding white gold tang buckle|
|Box & papers:||box and Extract from the Archives|
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