Voutilainen 28GML SOUYOU, Platinum

Voutilainen occupies an exceptional place in independent watchmaking. The vertically integrated operation – which includes casemaking, dial fabrication, and guillochage – allows him to offer a wide palette for the 60 or so watches the independent produces annually.

It is perhaps for this reason that when Voutilainen does look outside for inspiration, it does so with a view to creating truly exceptional artistic pieces. The pieces that have resulted from the close relationship watchmaker Kari Voutilainen has struck with urushin lacquer master Tatsuo Kitamura – who heads of the legendary Unryu-an workshop in Wajima City, Japan – are proof of this.  

The collaboration, which began in 2013, has yielded watches that have won Voutilainen five Artistic Crafts Watch Prizes at the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG). The latest of these, which came in 2025, was for this watch – the 28 GML SOUYOU.  

The craft

Reminiscent of the decoration of the 2014 Hisui (the second time Voutilainen collaborated with Unryu-an) the central GMT from a unique example in 2015, the SOUYOU cohesively brings together art and function. The coined portmanteau is a blend of ‘SOU’ – which relates to the outer green and blues meant to signify the oceans and seas – and ‘YOU’ – referring to the gold and reds typical of the sun’s heat and light.

The effect is the result of three different styles of craft involving fine cuts of shells and gold sheets, shaped by hand, placed intentionally and sealed in urushi tree sap. It is then fired and polished to lustrous effect. The result is an almost complete spectrum of ephemeral shades, as if seen through changing light.  

It is born of a craft typical to Kitamura’s Unryu-an studio. The artist spent years studying Japan’s long tradition of inlay and urushi craft before distilling it into a style both personal and distinct to him.

The art has tangible function beyond its pleasing quality. The inlay and lacquer work is employed to create the hour indicator on the 24-hour home-time scale.

The case

It is crafted from platinum and measures 39mm across and stands 11.2mm tall. The case features a three-part construction – the bezel and mid case wear rounded profiles. The bezel around the display caseback is flatter, with a groove around the well-proportioned crown to make it easier to engage it to set the time. The caseback is secured by proprietary screws and is engraved with the brand mark, serial number, precious metal hallmarks and the words ‘Unique piece’. Both bezel and the caseback meet the midcase in prominent lips. All parts, save for the rim of the display caseback, are evenly high-polished.

The brand’s signature teardrop lugs are welded to the midcase. They have a flat inner form while the outer edges have a rounded, organic-looking appearance. The crown is large, knurled and unsigned. Pushing on it advances the hour hand in one-hour increments – this helps easily set local time when travelling.

The calibre

On display is the manually wound movement. While its architecture appears similar to the in-house calibre 28, here it integrates the components of the GMT complication entirely. It is 30mm across and fills the case nicely. The large, free sprung balance measures 13.6mm in diameter and has a hairspring with a Grossman interior curve and Philips exterior curve aimed towards better isochronism. It works in conjunction with Voutilainen’s take on the double-wheeled direct impulse, or natural escapement. The movement hacks for precise time setting and the single barrel offers around 65 hours of reserve. 

The bridges and plates are crafted from German silver and wear a frosted finish. The wheels of the going train and the screwed-on plaques bearing the brand mark and movement number are crafted from stainless-steel.

Evidence of hand finishing is everywhere, from the anglage on the bridges to the countersinks for the screws and jewels and the black polished bar bridge anchoring the balance wheel. The ratchet wheel features a concave inner portion that is black polished while the outer edges are solarised. The outer edges of the teeth on the ratchet wheel are bevelled and polished.

The context

The collaborations with Unryu-an are further proof of the versatility at the heart of Voutilainen’s watchmaking. The blend of crafts, both ancient and ornate, re-interpreted by two of their finest modern practitioners, makes the watches more than just desirable objects of the present. The 28 GML SOUYOU, like the unique creations that preceded it, is destined to be an artefact of history telling future generations the story of the crafts of Wajima and the Vallée de Joux.   

Closer look

Condition

This Voutilainen 28GML SOUYOU is in excellent overall condition. The case and lugs show virtually no signs of wear, only very light superficial marks on the very surface of the material. The dial, hands, and movement are free of imperfections and have been well preserved. All hallmarks and engravings are well defined.

Warranty

The watch comes with a two-year, limited warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.