A Lange & Söhne has always known how to mark the moment. The brand has long created meaningful special, and sometimes entirely novel references to celebrate its own milestones as well as those of longstanding retail partners.
This 1815 Kalenderwoche is just such a watch. Created in 2006 for erstwhile historic jeweller and watchmaker Andreas Huber of Munich – and retail partner of A. Lange & Söhne – it honoured their partnership. It celebrated the retailers 150th year. The retailer was acquired by Bucherer in 2002.
While living within the 1815 family, it was a wholly fresh reference with a complication that hadn’t existed before in the brand’s repertoire and hasn’t been recreated since. It displays not just the days but the weeks of the year, with chronograph-style pushers to quickset both. It was powered by a movement that is also specific to the reference – the calibre L045 – and hasn’t been employed elsewhere. In a world of colourful special editions dials, A. Lange & Söhne’s approach is singular.
There were 150 examples of the1815 Kalenderwoche, with an equal number created in yellow and pink gold and platinum. This is one of the 50 with its classically proportioned 38.4mm case in pink gold. The construction is typical of the brand – the rounded bezel features a flat facet that meets the straight profile of the midcase. The flat caseback joins the midcase in a bevelled facet. The midcase is home to the well-proportioned knurled crown and is flanked by two squared pushers at 2 and 4 o’clock. The one at 2 advances the date while the one at 4 is for the pointer-style week of the year. The lugs, marginally stepped from the case as is the brand’s signature, have a minor facet and taper and curve down. Their 20mm distance is spanned by a large-grained, black leather strap secured by a matching pink gold signed pin buckle.
The silver, frosted dial shows its 1815 lineage. A chapter of the 53 weeks, with printed black Arabic numerals alternating with arrow markers, lies on the outermost edge. This is followed by chemin de fer track of minutes. The innermost chapter displays the Arabic hours. A subsidiary register at 6 o’clock displays the running seconds on a sector-style chapter. Co-axially mounted with the seconds indicator is the hand that corresponds to the German day of the week.
The discipline with which the font is employed – proprietary to A. Lange & Söhne of course – gives the dial characteristic cohesion. This extends to time-display hands as well. The heat bluing visually ties together the time display hands while the calendar display hands are both yellow gold. All hands, barring the week display indicator, are alpha style. The week indicator is feuille-style and has a beautiful, rounded form.
The caseback is engraved with the brand mark, place of origin, serial number out of 50 as well as a nod to the 150th year of Andreas Huber this reference commemorates. Also here are the precious metal hallmarks. Contained within a lip is the sapphire-cased, manually wound calibre L045. Based on the calibre L941.1, the calibre L045.1 is differentiated by its novel calendar complication.
It is 25mm across and its single barrel offers 45 hours of reserve. It beats at 21,600 vibrations per hour (or 3Hz) and features refinements such as hacking seconds. The balance is fine-tuned by a swans neck regulator.
The technology is finely embellished. The German silver three-quarter bridge is adorned with Glashütte striping while its edges are decorated with anglage. The balance bridge is free-hand engraved in a floral pattern as is customary for the brand. The swans neck regulator is black polished as is the cap of the escape bridge. The baseplate is decorated with perlage.
Engraved on the three-quarter bridge – in addition to the brand mark, place of origin and technical details such as jewel count (29) and how many positions it is adjusted to (five) – is Andreas Huber München 1856-2006. The watch comes with its original paperwork.
There is an earnestness of effort to A. Lange & Söhne’s limited edition offering. They are rarely ill-considered, rushed or purely cosmetic. The 1815 Kalenderwoche, with its eminently practical complication worthy of a business expense tax write-off, powered by a specially developed calibre, shows just how far the brand goes to honour its relationships. This reference’s rarity on the market shows how much enthusiasts appreciate this approach.
