Patek Philippe
Nautilus Ref. 3800 | yellow gold

Gold Dial

Regular price

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Patek Philippe
Nautilus Ref. 3800 | yellow gold

Gold Dial

Regular price

It’s been 45 years since the creation of the original Patek Philippe Nautilus and this now-classic piece, is more popular than ever. First unveiled by Patek Philippe in the 1970s and designed by Gérald Genta - who incidentally designed the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak amongst others - the Nautilus has become a cultural icon due to its distinctive features and its role as a pioneer for high-end luxury sports watches.

A mid-size Nautilus

The reference 3800/1J (seen in this example), was first produced in the early 1980s, as an alternative to the ‘Jumbo’ 3700 - with a reduced diameter of 37.5mm - in response to the initial slow start of the original reference. As with all Nautilus examples, the reference 3800/1 features an integrated, water-tight "porthole" case, famously penned by Mr. Gérald Genta.

In essence, the reference 3800 is a scaled-down version of the 3700. The watch displays a similar yellow gold ridged dial, with horizontal grooves, found on one of the rarest variants of the 3700 in yellow gold. It also features similar applied tritium-filled hour markers, white outer-minute divisions, polished baton hands with luminous inserts and a date aperture at 3 o’clock.

An all-gold design

An all-gold Nautilus is a bit of a paradox. The Nautilus was originally conceived as a luxury steel watch, yet its design and proportions render wonderfully when executed in yellow gold. This 3800J adopts the same key traits as the most elusive and attractive versions of the 3700J, which features a yellow gold case and matching yellow gold dial.

The all-gold design of the watch, with the subtle white date disc, emphasises its visual richness and vintage inspiration. In yellow gold models, the yellow gold dial also appears rarer than the blue. Though the blue dial has traditionally been the most popular variant, the vintage aesthetic and monochromatic appearance of a 3800/1J with a golden dial means it has recently started appealing to a growing number of collectors. This example is extremely well-preserved overall, retaining its original lines, a tight bracelet and a thick case. 

The Design

With this example, the index-markers and hands are manufactured from yellow gold, indicated by the lower case Greek letter ‘sigma’ at the bottom of the dial. The ‘sigma’ signature was a visual declaration of the use of precious materials, and was adopted by a number of manufactures from the ’70s onwards - emphasising the inherent value of a high-quality, mechanical watch. 

Like the ref. 3700, the case and integrated bracelet are excellently finished, with angular, beveled and polished edges. The polished bezel and case edges fantastically-contrast with the brushed surface of the case and bracelet. This particular 3800J features a seldom-seen "thin" bracelet, where the individual links are slimmer than those commonly found on most Nautilus 3800 watches.

The watch also features a white gold deployante buckle, as indicated by the '750' stamp visible on one of the blades. 
At 37.5mm in diameter, and only 7.5mm thick, this 3800 Nautilus case is an elegant twist of perspectives and size, and wears comfortably on the wrist.  

The Movement

As a result of Patek Philippe's decision to develop its own in-house, ultra-slim movement, the reference 3800 features an updated calibre 335 S C (for “seconde centrale” or “central second”), replacing the previous calibre 28-255C movement.

The calibre 335 S C features 29 jewels, a straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance; adjusted to cold, heat, isochronism, and 5 positions, a self-compensating flat balance spring and shock absorber mechanism. Furthermore, the solid-gold rotor is finished in classic Patek Philippe style, with circular Geneva stripes.

The Set

This Patek Philippe Nautilus 3800/1J is accompanied by an Extract from the Archives (to follow). It also comes with its original outer box and wooden inner box. While steel models came in a different style of box, the gold models were almost always accompanied by a wooden box in this style.

It comes with its original 3800/001 yellow gold bracelet (with "thin" links) and signed white gold clasp. This particular example comes with a full complement of 23 links, including 10 removable ones, which is rather unusual to find. 

Viewings can be arranged in Central London by appointment.

To find out more about the Nautilus 3800, read our in-depth Collector's Guide.

Brand: Patek Philippe
Model: Nautilus 3800/001J
Movement: mechanical automatic Cal. 335 SC
Functions: date, hours, minutes, central seconds
Features: yellow gold ridged dial, white date-disc
Case: 37.5mm yellow gold
Crystal: sapphire
Bracelet: 3800/001J yellow gold bracelet (with "thin" links) and signed white gold clasp
Year: c. 1990
Box & papers: Outer box, wooden inner box, Extract from the Archives (to be delivered)
This Patek Philippe Nautilus 3800J comes with an Extract from the Archives (to follow). It also comes with its original outer box and wooden inner box, which are consistent with gold examples delivered during the period. The case and bracelet are excellently finished, with beveled, polished and granular surfaces. Both the case and bracelet are original to the watch, with appropriately corresponding signatures throughout. The case has developed some light oxidation throughout, showing that this 3800J has not been polished recently.
The bracelet comes with a full complement of 23 end links (excluding end links), including 10 removable ones. The screws in the bracelet show some sign of usage, from when these would have been previously removed. The applied hour markers are (original) tritium-filled, with ‘dot’ outer-minute divisions and original polished baton-hands (with original luminous inserts). The 335 S C calibre movement of this 3800/1A comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man.

All of our pre-owned watches have undergone thorough mechanical inspections, including being ultrasonically cleaned, serviced and resealed if appropriate and tested for at least four days, to ensure they meet our highest timekeeping standards. Our pre-owned and vintage watches, unless stated otherwise, are covered by a full or a limited twenty-four month warranty. For example, due to their age, some vintage watches should not be subjected to the same conditions as when they were new. Please see our Terms & Conditions for further information. 

All of our new watches are covered by the warranty from the original manufacturer. Please contact us for further information.

We offer complimentary worldwide delivery on our watches. If ordering from overseas, delivery will depend on the value of the timepiece and the destination. All import taxes and duties are the responsibility of the buyer.

If ordering from the UK before 1 PM, your watch will be sent the same working day. The courier will depend on the value of the watch, with all watches delivered the next working day.

Please note that pre-owned goods (in the United Kingdom) are subject to a marginal rate of VAT, which can not be reclaimed. For further information, please see here

You can cancel your order without giving any reason, within 14 days from the day the watch has been delivered to you.

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