F. P. Journe
Octa Jour et Nuit | Ruthenium dial | 40mm platinum

Limited to 99

Regular price


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F. P. Journe
Octa Jour et Nuit | Ruthenium dial | 40mm platinum

Limited to 99

Regular price


This Limited Edition F. P. Journe Ruthenium Octa Jour et Nuit watch is one of only ninety-nine pieces, created between 2003 and 2004. Each of the series is individually numbered (XX/99-0XA) and cased in platinum, with this example featuring one of the first 20 numbers. Having only ever appeared in the Ruthenium Collection, the Jour et Nuit complication is as unusual as it is attractive, with the added appeal of ruthenium coating on the dial and movement. 

THE RUTHENIUM COLLECTION

Early on in the life of the brand, five watches were chosen for the Ruthenium Collection, representing the latter part of F.P. Journe’s brass movement production. All the dials and brass movement plates were coated in ruthenium, a rare inert metal belonging to the platinum family. Due to its extreme hardness and insensitivity to oxidation, it is often used in electronics or aerospace engineering, though rarely ever included in watches.

All of the pieces from the collection are housed in a 40mm platinum case, which is larger than the usual 38mm size of the time. Limited to 99 pieces for each model, the Ruthenium Collection includes the Tourbillon Souverain, the Chronomètre à Resonance, the Octa Chronographe, the Octa Calendrier and the Octa Réserve de Marche Jour et Nuit. In total, 495 Ruthenium Collection pieces are understood to have been produced.

Interestingly, the Octa Jour et Nuit was only ever made for the Ruthenium Collection, making it all the more unusual. Indeed, it has no counterpart in normal production, making it one of the rarer complications produced by the watchmaker. 

Aesthetically, the pieces from the Ruthenium Collection are rather distinctive. The dials feature the grainy texture and shimmer which has come to be associated with the early pieces, while at the same time offering the depth of a darker colour-tone, which is broadly absent from Journe’s production. Ruthenium has a complex colour, which varies depending on the angle and intensity of the light. The dials can go anywhere from a dark, charcoal colour to a lighter, smoke grey.

BUILDING ON THE OCTA FOUNDATION

While this piece is undeniably attractive, it is the movement that F.P. Journe is famed for. Since the introduction of the first Réserve de Marche in 2001, mechanical F. P Journe examples can be divided into two main movement types – the manually-wound Souverain and automatic Octa (Latin for "eight" or "infinite"). 

Each Octa movement is designed to incorporate fully-integrated complications within the same volume. Impressively, all variations within F. P Journe’s entire Octa collection are identical, both in diameter and thickness. This Octa Jour et Nuit builds on the movement of the Octa Réserve de Marche, with the incorporation of a day and night indicator below the power reserve.

THE DESIGN

Housed in a 40 mm dress watch case, the watch is made distinctive by the ruthenium coated dial. The charcoal grey surface is delicately textured, giving the dial a mixture of tones and added depth. The ruthenium plating reflects light differently, transitioning to a smokey, silver hue from different angles. 

The words “Jour et Nuit“ are inscribed below the day and night indicator, along with "Invenit et Fecit" (Latin for “Invented and Made”) in the brand's classic style – the latter, a nod to signing conventions of a century ago. The signature F.P. Journe style hands form a distinct contrast to the silver and grey dial. Between eight and nine o’clock is a power reserve indicator of 120 hours, with a large date aperture above. Overall, the dial layout is clean and highly legible.

THE MOVEMENT

This automatic, self-winding F.P. Journe caliber 1300 movement is ruthenium-plated brass, with Côtes de Genève embellishments, constructed with 32 jewels and a shock absorber mechanism. It further features a straight-line lever escapement, and monometallic 4-arm balance with 4 timing weights, adjusted to 5 positions. It includes a self-compensating free-sprung flat balance spring, and an off-center bi-directional 22-carat gold guilloche rotor. The movement is engraved "Exclusive Power Reserve System" and "Precision Chronometer".

In 2004, Journe began manufacturing movements from 18-carat gold; however - interestingly - it is François-Paul Journe’s earliest brass-movement pieces that command more interest from collectors. It’s estimated that only 2,000 brass-movement examples were produced, across all lines, and were manufactured exclusively between 2001 and circa 2004. These earlier F. P Journe pieces are highly sought-after, owing to their placement within the brand’s history and rarity. The Ruthenium Series only enhances these qualities, using the light-absorbing dark metal to create a unique aesthetic.

THE SET

Combining many of the most desirable aspects of F.P. Journe’s manufacture, the Ruthenium Octa Jour et Nuit continues to represent a rare opportunity to acquire an unusual piece in the history of the brand. Ninety-nine examples may have been produced, though only a handful of these have reached the market since, demonstrating the affection many owners of the series clearly have for the execution of these models. This particular example bears one of the first 20 numbers, making it one of the earlier pieces to be numbered in the production run. 

This Limited Edition F. P. Journe Ruthenium Octa Jour et Nuit is accompanied by its original certificate of origin and instruction manual. It comes on one of our Stockholm grey grained leather strap and is also accompanied by its original alligator strap and platinum tang buckle.

Brand: F. P. Journe
Model: Ruthenium Octa Jour et Nuit
Movement: mechanical manual-winding Cal. 1300
Functions: date, hours, minutes, sub-seconds, day and night 
Features: power-reserve indicator, guilloche hours and minutes, display-back, brass movement
Case: 40 mm platinum
Crystal: sapphire front and display-back
Strap: Stockholm grey grained leather strap, black F. P Journe alligator strap with platinum buckle
Lug/buckle width: 20/19mm
Year: c. 2003
Box & papers: certificate, instruction manual
This Ruthenium Octa Jour et Nuit is in very good condition, with a few superficial marks consistent with wear. The dial displays some light speckling, especially around the power reserve, a natural result of time commonly found across pieces from the Ruthenium CollectionThe watch is guaranteed for authenticity and comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man.

All of our pre-owned watches have undergone thorough mechanical inspections, including being ultrasonically cleaned, serviced and resealed if appropriate and tested for at least four days, to ensure they meet our highest timekeeping standards. Our pre-owned and vintage watches, unless stated otherwise, are covered by a full or a limited twenty-four month warranty. For example, due to their age, some vintage watches should not be subjected to the same conditions as when they were new. Please see our Terms & Conditions for further information. 

All of our new watches are covered by the warranty from the original manufacturer. Please contact us for further information.

We offer worldwide delivery on all of our watches.

If ordering from the UK or Europe before 1 PM, your watch will be sent the same working day. The courier will depend on the value of the watch, with all watches delivered the next working day.

If ordering from outside Europe, delivery will depend on choice of courier and destination. 

Please note, that prices are quoted gross of VAT (unless expressly stated otherwise) and that preowned goods (in the United Kingdom) are subject to a marginal rate of VAT, which can not be reclaimed. For further information, please see here.

You can cancel your order without giving any reason, within 14 days from the day the watch has been delivered to you.

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