F. P. Journe
Chronomètre Optimum | platinum
White Mother of Pearl
Believed to (currently) be the only one of its kind, this white mother of pearl Chronomètre Optimum is part of a small, yet significant collection of F.P. Journe watches, made with stone dials. Be it jade, ruby, lapis, Damascus steel or blackened-gold, the brand's exotic dials are true testament to the independent watchmaker's philosophy; continuous experimentation and refocusing in the art of craftsmanship. No two dials are alike.
In the the late 1980s, François-Paul Journe envisioned the Chronomètre Optimum to be the watch that he would design for himself - “with three-hands, two mainsprings and a remontoir d'égalité”. It was then in 2001 that the original concept for the Chronomètre Optimum was reworked, taking over 10 years to reach production in 2012.
In the design, Monsieur Journe used familiar pieces from the Chronomètre Souverain and Tourbillon. Like the Souverain, the Optimum utilises a double-barrel layout, operating in parallel. Borrowing from the tourbillon, the Optimum uses the one-second rementoir d'egalité system. The latter is displayed in one of two large apertures on the dial side, and it provides constant force to the escapement, acting as a transmission and balancing system for the transfer of power between the mainspring and the escapement. The patented, EBHP direct-impulse bi-axial escapement functions without any oil or any form of lubricant. Connected to this, is a "natural" deadbeat seconds, displayed through the caseback.
The combination of these systems offers a more stable delivery of energy to the movement. According to Journe himself, the Optimum is thus the ultimate chronometer, achieved by the maximum possible reduction of internal friction in the movement.
This manual-winding, Calibre 1510 is made from 18k rose gold, with fausses-côtes embellishments, constructed with 44 jewels, oscillating at a rate of 21,600 vibrations per hour. As expected from F. P Journe, the movement is expertly finished and elaborately decorated, with contrasts established between the circular graining on the baseplate and Genevan stripes on the bridges.
Sized at a contemporary 40mm, this platinum Chronomètre Optimum features a rounded bezel, thin lugs and the manufactures' signature ‘flat crown’ with a rope-like pattern. The entire watch is polished and mirror-finished, while the crown itself is engraved. The white mother of pearl dial of this Chronomètre Optimum is the only known example produced for the reference to date, with a very small number of pieces having also been made with black mother of pearl dials.
The mother of pearl dial is an iridescent, opaque gemstone, with polychromatic qualities when exposed to light. For decades, dial-makers have experimented with a variety of stones, to add different colours and textures to dials. The process is time-consuming, costly and requires intricate, specialist skill, making them relatively rare. For this white mother of pearl dial Optimum, a precise part of the stone would’ve been chosen (with the most attractive colour and pattern), before cutting, grinding and polishing to an exact thickness, only fractions of a millimetre. The result, is an original display of craftsmanship and design.
The words "Invenit et Fecit" are inscribed above the two subsidiary dials (Latin for “Invented and Made”) in classic F.P Journe style - a nod to signing conventions of a century ago. The power-reserve indicator is located a 6 o’clock, heading from 0 to 40+. Impressively, the Chronomètre Optimum has a power-reserve of 70 hours, with 50 full-hours possible without any loss of amplitude.
The watch comes on an Istanbul strap with curved-ends (measuring 20 x 19mm), as well as the original dark brown alligator strap from F. P. Journe.
Viewings can be arranged in Central London by appointment.
|Brand:||F. P. Journe|
|Movement:||manual-winding Calibre 1510|
|Functions:||power reserve, hours, minutes, sub-seconds|
|Features:||white mother of pearl dial, display-back|
|Case:||40 mm platinum|
|Crystal:||sapphire front and back|
|Strap:||curved Istanbul nubuck strap, grey alligator strap from F. P. Journe with platinum tang buckle|
|Box & papers:||full set - box and papers|
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