Patek Philippe
Nautilus 3800 | yellow gold

Beyer-Signed

Regular price £44,250

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Patek Philippe
Nautilus 3800 | yellow gold

Beyer-Signed

Regular price £44,250

This Patek Philippe Nautilus 3800/1J in yellow gold features an elusive double-signed dial, bearing the name of the Zürich based retailer, Beyer Chronometrie. Having left the manufacture in 1984 - three short years after the reference was introduced - this example also features a range of early features, from the more traditional signature on the dial to the elusive black date disc.

A double-signed Nautilus 

Shortly after the introduction of the "Jumbo" Nautilus 3700, Patek Philippe experimented with a mid-size version of the design, in response to a slow start for the original model. Introduced in 1981, the reference 3800 was meant to bring the Nautilus to a wider audience, who at the time favoured more modestly sized wristwatches. In essence, the ref. 3800 is a scaled-down version of the ref. 3700, retaining many of the same features, such as the ridged dial, integrated bracelet and porthole case penned by Gerald Genta.

Double-signed dials from Patek Philippe have a special appeal to collectors, given their exclusivity and rarity. Available from a select few retailers around the world, the prestigious Beyer Chronometrie in Zürich is one such name, with others including Tiffany & Co. in New York, and Gübelin in Lucerne. Examples of the reference 3800 with Beyer on the dial are exceedingly rare, with very small numbers having reached the market to date.

The close proximity of the brand and the retailer represents the permanence of watch collecting in the German-speaking world, which endures to this day. Beyer started selling Patek Philippe watches around 1842, with the two family-owned businesses still working closely together. The strength of the bond between the manufacture and Beyer Chronometrie is neatly summarised by the fact that the first 25 models of the reference 3940 were individually numbered and stamped by Beyer, thus launching the iconic model.

A distinctive dial

Far from being uniform, the dial of this ref. 3800 has developed a very subtle green colour, displaying a gradient of greenish-blue tones throughout. This variation is a result of changes in the production process throughout the early lifecycle of the reference, ageing over time, or a combination of the two. Such colour changes have also been observed examples of the ref. 3700, where such variances in dial colour are most commonly associated with specific types of dials.

This example also features an unusual diamond-set dial. To date, all yellow gold Nautilus 3800 watches which have come to market bearing the Beyer signature have featured these precious indexes, suggesting that the combination of these elements was considered particularly desirable at the time. The style and font of the Beyer signature is consistent with other examples which have come to market.

This particular dial also features a range of characteristics only featured on the earliest examples, with this example having been produced in March 1984 - only three years after the launch of the reference. The “PATEK PHILIPPE GENÈVE” signature at 12 o’clock also shows an accent above the second “È” in “GENÈVE”, with the majority of the production not having one. The accent appears to be a feature of the earlier models, for the first ten years or so of production. Complementing the deep blue dial is the rarer, dark-coloured date disc. You will also find the “σ · SWISS · σ” signature at the bottom of the dial, used to signify the use of precious materials on the dial and hands. 

An all-gold case

An all-gold Nautilus is a bit of a paradox. Though the Nautilus was originally conceived as a luxury steel watch, its design and proportions render wonderfully when executed in yellow gold. Like the ref. 3700, the case and integrated bracelet are excellently finished, with angular, bevelled and polished edges. The polished bezel and case edges fantastically-contrast with the brushed surface of the case and bracelet. This particular 3800J features a seldom-seen "thin" bracelet, where the individual links are slimmer than those commonly found on most Nautilus 3800 watches. 

The watch also features a white gold deployante buckle, as indicated by the "750" stamp visible on one of the blades. It features a blade-style clasp, also most commonly found on the earliest models, in the same style as what you might expect to find on an early ref. 3700. At 37.5mm in diameter and only 7.5mm thick, this 3800 Nautilus case is an elegant twist of perspectives and size, and wears comfortably on the wrist.  

The Movement

As a result of Patek Philippe's decision to develop its own in-house, ultra-slim movement, the reference 3800 features an updated calibre 335 S C (for “seconde centrale” or “central second”), replacing the previous calibre 28-255C movement.

The calibre 335 S C features 29 jewels, a straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance; adjusted to cold, heat, isochronism, and 5 positions, a self-compensating flat balance spring and shock absorber mechanism. Furthermore, the solid-gold rotor is finished in classic Patek Philippe style, with circular Geneva stripes.

The Set

This Patek Philippe Nautilus 3800/1J is accompanied by an Extract from the Archives, which confirms its date of production as of March 1984. The corresponding movement (1.422.XXX) and case (559.XXX) numbers are confirmed. 


To find out more about the Nautilus 3800, read our in-depth Collector's Guide.


Brand: Patek Philippe x Beyer
Model: Nautilus 3800/001J
Movement: mechanical automatic Cal. 335 SC
Functions: date, hours, minutes, central seconds
Features: blue ridged dial, Beyer signature, black date-disc
Case: 37.5mm yellow gold
Crystal: sapphire
Bracelet: 3800/001J yellow gold bracelet (with "thin" links) and signed white gold clasp
Year: March 1984
Box & papers: Extract from the Archives
This Patek Philippe Nautilus 3800J is in very good condition for a vintage watch of its age. The case and bracelet are excellently finished, with bevelled, polished and granular surfaces. Both the case and bracelet are original to the watch, with appropriately corresponding signatures throughout. The bracelet shows some stretching throughout, consistent with wear over an extended period of time (most noticeable on the first link at 12 o'clock). 

The bracelet comes with 21 links (excluding end links), including 8 removable ones. The screws in the bracelet show some sign of usage, from when these would have been previously removed. The dial has developed a very subtle green colour, displaying a gradient of greenish-blue tones throughout, with some patina speckled throughout. The applied hour markers are original diamond-set, with lume-filled polished baton hands. The 335 S C calibre movement of this 3800/1A comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man.

All of our pre-owned watches have undergone thorough mechanical inspections, including being ultrasonically cleaned, serviced and resealed if appropriate and tested for at least four days, to ensure they meet our highest timekeeping standards. Our pre-owned and vintage watches, unless stated otherwise, are covered by a full or a limited twenty-four month warranty. For example, due to their age, some vintage watches should not be subjected to the same conditions as when they were new. Please see our Terms & Conditions for further information. 

All of our new watches are covered by the warranty from the original manufacturer. Please contact us for further information.

We offer worldwide delivery on all of our watches.

If ordering from the UK or Europe before 1 PM, your watch will be sent the same working day. The courier will depend on the value of the watch, with all watches delivered the next working day.

If ordering from outside Europe, delivery will depend on choice of courier and destination. 

Please note, that prices are quoted gross of VAT (unless expressly stated otherwise) and that preowned goods (in the United Kingdom) are subject to a marginal rate of VAT, which can not be reclaimed. For further information, please see here.

You can cancel your order without giving any reason, within 14 days from the day the watch has been delivered to you.

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