Audemars Piguet
Quantième Perpetuel | rose gold

Ref. 25657OR

Regular price

Click for 360° view

Audemars Piguet
Quantième Perpetuel | rose gold

Ref. 25657OR

Regular price

First launched in 1978, the Quantième Perpetuel by Audemars Piguet was the world’s thinnest automatic perpetual calendar. This example captures much of the appeal of the earliest pieces, with its classic "Audemars Piguet" signature, recessed subdials and seemingly unpolished case. It also comes with an impressive array of accompanying materials, including a setting pin, hangtag and even a newspaper advertisement for the watch. 

The Quantième Perpétuel

In the late ‘70s, complicated wristwatches were exceedingly rare. The Quartz Crisis had decimated the watchmaking industry, with the number of watchmakers in Switzerland having dropped from 1,600 to 600. Against all odds, three watchmakers at Audemars Piguet decided to develop the world’s thinnest automatic perpetual calendar movement. The project was carried out in secret, with the manufacture’s upper management completely unaware of what was going on. The watchmakers worked in their free time, often meeting at night to discuss their work.

In 1977, they surprised George Golay, the CEO of Audemars Piguet at the time, with the finished calibre. A risk taker who’d already released the Royal Oak a few years prior, Golay was confident that the manufacture could successfully commercialise the automatic perpetual calendar. When it was launched in 1978, the Quantième Perpetuel was the world’s thinnest automatic perpetual calendar. To put things in perspective, in 1984, only 1,066 perpetual calendars were produced in Switzerland. Of those, Audemars Piguet made 675.

Though the Royal Oak often gets credit for helping Audemars Piguet survive in the wake of the Quartz Crisis, evidence suggests the Quantième Perpetuel played a much greater role. According to the manufacture, 7,219 perpetual calendars were made over a fifteen year period, including some which were integrated into the Royal Oak case. A canvas to experiment with different designs, 70 different models were produced, with around 200 variations documented.

A Classic Design 

The lines of the Quantième Perpetuel were penned by Jacqueline Dimier, who is considered by some as the protégé of the legendary Gérald Genta. This reference 25657 was produced between 1982 and 1993, making it amongst the earliest of the Quantième Perpetuel models. During that period, 362 examples were made in rose gold, versus the 1,309 pieces produced in yellow gold. 

The perpetual calendar indications are laid out in an intuitive manner. The date and day are shown at three and nine o’clock respectively, with the months displayed at twelve o’clock. A moonphase indication is placed at six o’clock, with graduations for the moon position just above. The “Audemars Piguet” font is flat and restrained, imbuing this piece with a certain vintage appeal. Later versions of the same reference are known to have the more contemporary font, giving them a distinctively more modern appearance. 

All of the subdials are recessed, which gives a satisfying level of depth to the overall design and creates some interesting effects when it interacts with the light. This is another subtle feature which is lost in subsequent iterations. Evidence suggests that the dial was manufactured by Stern Créations, the storied manufacturer which also produced dials for the Patek Philippe Nautilus and the Rolex “Stella” models, among others. The rose gold stick hands provide excellent legibility against the white background. 

At 36mm in diameter and less than 8mm thick, this 25657OR sits comfortably on the wrist. On the reverse of the rose gold case, the watch features circular graining, along with finely-engraved markings. The hallmarks, which can be found on the left hand side of the case, are sharp and deep, suggesting that this example may have never been polished.

The Movement

This Quantième Perpetuel Automatique is powered by the Caliber 2120/2, derived from Jaeger-LeCoultre’s legendary ultra-thin JLC 920 movement. The Caliber 2120 was an initial project of Jaeger LeCoultre in 1967, funded and contributed by Audemars Piguet, and famous for its adoption by Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin.

The ultra-thin automatic 2120/2 calibre features 38 working jewels, a Gyromax balance and four ruby wheels to support the full-diameter rotor, which runs on a beryllium rail for stability. The rotor is decorated with Geneva stripes and edged with 21-carat gold, to increase the oscillating mass. The movement remains the thinnest full-rotor self-winding movement in the world, considered by many as one of the most technically refined wrist-watch movements ever made.

The Set

This Quantième Perpetuel 25657OR is accompanied by an impressive array of paperwork. It comes with its outer box, inner leather box, hangtag, setting pin, Quantième Perpetuel manual, miniature Audemars Piguet calendars and Certificate of Origin and Warranty (stamped by Sunny Watch and Jewellery Co. in Hong Kong). The original owner even kept a newspaper cutout with an Audemars Piguet advertisement for this exact watch, displaying the original retail price of $33,500.

The watch is fitted to one of our Stockholm straps, also accompanied by its original rose gold tang buckle.

Brand: Audemars Piguet
Model: Quantième Perpetuel Automatique 25657OR
Movement: Calibre 2120/2
Functions: moonphase, month, date, day, hours, minutes
Features: recessed subdials, classic "Audemars Piguet" signature
Case: 36mm rose gold
Crystal: sapphire front
Strap: Stockholm strap, rose gold tang buckle
Lug/buckle width: 20/16mm
Year: c. 1990
Box & papers: outer box, inner leather box, hangtag, setting pin, Quantième Perpetuel manual, miniature Audemars Piguet calendars, Certificate of Origin and Warranty, newspaper cutout 
This platinum Quantième Perpetuel is in very good condition, with some light superficial marks throughout, consistent with wear. The hallmarks, which can be found on the left hand side of the case, are sharp and deep, suggesting that this example may have never been polished. The dial shows some light signs of ageing throughout, consistent with other pieces from the same period. It is guaranteed for authenticity and comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man

All of our pre-owned watches have undergone thorough mechanical inspections, including being ultrasonically cleaned, serviced and resealed if appropriate and tested for at least four days, to ensure they meet our highest timekeeping standards. Our pre-owned and vintage watches, unless stated otherwise, are covered by a full or a limited twenty-four month warranty. For example, due to their age, some vintage watches should not be subjected to the same conditions as when they were new. Please see our Terms & Conditions for further information. 

All of our new watches are covered by the warranty from the original manufacturer. Please contact us for further information.

We offer complimentary worldwide delivery on our watches. If ordering from overseas, delivery will depend on the value of the timepiece and the destination. All import taxes and duties are the responsibility of the buyer.

If ordering from the UK before 1 PM, your watch will be sent the same working day. The courier will depend on the value of the watch, with all watches delivered the next working day.

Please note that pre-owned goods (in the United Kingdom) are subject to a marginal rate of VAT, which can not be reclaimed. For further information, please see here

You can cancel your order without giving any reason, within 14 days from the day the watch has been delivered to you.

A Collected Man

A Collected Man

We offer a bespoke service

Learn More