Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph, 5970R-001, Rose Gold

The reference 5970 descends from a long line of impressive perpetual calendar chronographs from Patek Philippe. Produced between 2004 and 2011, despite its short run, the reference presented a thoroughly modern expression of this combination of complications.

The design was overseen by Thierry Stern, a task Philippe Stern entrusted him with. It was a passing of the torch from the old guard to the new. The reference drew from Patek Philippe's rich history with perpetual calendar chronographs while incorporating modern touches. This is evident in the thoughtful dial layout and the proportions of elements. Each register expresses two units of times while the inclusion of a chemin de fer minutes track and tachymeter scale – additions on the previous reference 3970 – invoke the 1518 and some iterations of the 2499.

The thoroughly modern 40mm case, in warm rose gold in this example, bears several distinctive details. It is worth noting that the 5970 was made in this metal for just three years between 2004 and 2007. The lugs, 21mm apart narrow and feature facets. On the underside the lugs are engraved with the brand mark and precious metal hallmarks. They are fitted with a dark brown, large-grained leather strap secured by a rose gold deployant clasp with the Calatrava cross. They are stepped from the midcase. The pronounced concave bezel meets the toroidal midcase in a flat facet. The compressed, rounded form of the midcase serves to minimise the 13.5mm case height. It is home to the squared chronograph pushers as well as the three of the four correctors for the calendar complication – these are integrated in between the lugs. The fourth one – that manipulates the day of the week – is at 10 o’clock. Contained within a recess in the midcase, that serves to guard it, is the knurled and signed crown.

The decagonal screwed down exhibition caseback offers a window in to the finely finished calibre 27-70 Q. Based on the legendary Lemania 2310 (that was also the basis of Omega’s calibre 321 and featured in the Patek Philippe reference 3970) the reference 5970 was the last perpetual calendar chronographs by Patek Philippe to employ this èbauche. It was extensively modified by the brand and has earned its reputation as one of the most impressive calibres. It is beautifully finished with bridges featuring Geneva striping and edges bevelled and polished. Parts such as the chronograph levers are vertically satinated. The balance bridge features the Geneva seal.  
 
Which brings us to the small matter of the dial. It is well judged, with the two equisized registers at 3 and 9 o’clock offset by a seemingly larger moonphase and date display at 6 o’clock. This is mainly due to the large, 'typewriter-style' dates chapter (also seen on the 3970) that runs outside the register. In addition to the twin day and month apertures, the register at 9 features running seconds as well as the 24-hour time indication. Its counterpart at 3 registers 30-minutes of elapsed time on the centrally mounted chronograph seconds hand. This register is also home to the leap year indicator.

The registers at 3 and 9 feature printed batons and Arabic chapters while the central portions wear concentric circular engine turning. The faceted gold hour markers are complemented by the rounded, feuille-style hour and minutes indicators, with similarly formed hands indicating the seconds, elapsed minutes and date.

The watch is accompanied by a photocopy of the original certificate of origin.

The reference 5970’s appeal straddles preferences for chic mid-century charm and for a watch made to modern tolerances. Wrapped in warm, rose gold, its appeal is undeniable.

Closer look

Condition

This Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph 5970R-001 is in excellent overall condition. The case and lugs show virtually no signs of wear, with only extremely light superficial marks on the very surface of the material. The dial, hands, and movement are free from any imperfections and have been well preserved. All hallmarks and engravings on the watch and buckle are crisp and well defined.

Warranty

The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.