After a period spent restoring some of the finest watches from the last three centuries, Kari Voutilainen set out as an independent watchmaker. His work has been welcomed with great acclaim, on account of its unique aesthetic and quality. Every component in his watches, from the bridges to the smallest of screws, involves manual labour, from adjusting tolerances to polishing and angling.

His efforts have been recognised with more than a half dozen awards at the GPHG (Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève), the most prestigious award ceremony in the watch industry. The Vingt-8 collection has long been a centrepiece of the watchmaker's offering, representing the canvas on which he has continually experimented over the years.

The example takes inspiration from the colour configuration and style of a Vingt-8 piece previously commissioned by an esteemed collector. However, the watch retains Voutilainen's signature 'Observatoire'-style hands, including on the sub-dial, a touch that allows the watch to retain a more traditional look. Additionally, the deep-grey dial is devoid of any guilloché patterns, a rather unusual sight on Voutilainen's watches. This is further complemented by applied rose gold Roman numerals to mark the hours, and matching hands. The platinum case measures at 39.5mm and is fitted with Voutilainen's signature tear-shaped lugs, showing the watchmaker's uncompromising attention to detail and craftsmanship.

While the early Observatoire watches that used the Peseux 260 ebauche were certified by the Besançon Observatory, Voutilainen's later in-house Cal. 28 movements were not. This example is one of the extremely few Vingt-8 pieces certified by the observatory, of which only one other exists. To be awarded a certificate from the Besançon Observatory, the watch had to go through a stringent testing period where the tolerances for error is much finer than any other standard, including certified chronometers from COSC. The certificate received with this watch states the actual performance of the movement, and its status as an observatory chronometer.

The sapphire crystal on the reverse allows one to see inside the movement, revealing the rich palette of hues and forms. The Cal. 28 is made in-house, from German silver and titanium, with the additional ruthenium-coating enhancing the visual impact of the movement. Through the combination of a a free-sprung balance with Breguet over-coil and a Grossmann interior curve, and the signature direct impulse escapement with two large (13.6mm) escapement wheels, a high degree of engineering ingenuity is accomplished. One of the hallmarks of Voutilainen as a manufacture is their superlative hand-finishing; with expert anglage and a mixture of complimentary surfaces. 

The watch is accompanied by its original box and papers, including a signed and dated Certificate of Origin, the stamped and dated Observatoire de Besçancon card, and guarantee booklet.

Closer look

Condition

This Voutilainen Vingt-8 is in excellent condition throughout. The case and lugs show very light superficial marks throughout, consistent with minimal wear over time. The dial, hands, and movement are free from any signs of imperfection. The hallmarks on the clasp and caseback are crisp and well defined.

Warranty

The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.