Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain, RRCC-01PT, Platinum

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Here is one of 25 platinum examples of Rexhepi Rexhepi’s Chronomètre Contemporain 1*, the watch that won its maker the Men’s Watch prize at the Fondation du Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) in 2018. It features a refined platinum case subtly imbued with details Rexhepi encountered both in scientific watches from the 1940s and 50s and in the work of casemaker Emile Vichet for Patek Philippe in this era. The platinum case is paired with a white grand feu enamel dial with blue markings. Powering it is the manually wound calibre RR-01 that features the zero-second reset mini complication aimed at precise time setting. The calibre is as beautifully laid out as it is finely finished.

Focus: The Dial of the Chronomètre Contemporain

Rexhepi’s historical inspiration finds its way on to the vitreous (or grand feu) enamel dials too, in white or black. Often the choice of material on well-made pocket watches of the past, this kind of enamelling is achieved by applying layers of enamel powder with a paintbrush, firing the dial at a high temperature and repeating the process until a glossy texture is achieved. Finally, treating the dial with an abrasive paste produces the evenly smooth, glass-like texture. It is a challenging process, and one prone to failure.

For the Chronomètre Contemporain, this process is done twice, given the two-part construction of the dial and subdial. While in the prototypes, the watch featured a simple, single-piece construction, production versions came with a recessed subdial, created separately and then soldered on. Around the subdial was a gold retaining ring corresponding to the case metal, adding an element for light to play with.

Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain RRCC-01PT Platinum preowned watch at A Collected Man London
Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain RRCC-01PT Platinum preowned watch at A Collected Man London