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This Patek Philippe 3820 combines a vintage-leaning case design with a striking golden dial, and the subtle addition of a Gübelin signature. The practice of double-signing watches stretches back several decades and imbues pieces such as this one with a sense of romance and intrigue
A Historic Lineage
First introduced in 1932, the Calatrava reference 96 was one of the earliest wristwatches ever released by Patek Philippe. The manufacture had just been purchased by Charles and Henri Stern, and this was the first model they unveiled, with the intention of breathing a new life into the Genevan brand.
Designed by David Penney, who was heavily influenced by the Bauhaus school of art, the Calatrava design favoured simplicity – a significant departure from the excess of the Art Deco era. Meanwhile, the name "Calatrava" and the familiar Patek Philippe Calatrava Cross were styled after the medieval Order of Calatrava, an organisation of knights that originated in Spain. Looking back, this original design is considered by many as the ultimate blueprint for a time-only dress watch. Since its inception, the Calatrava has taken on many different forms, including with this reference 3820.
A Double Signed Example
The practice of double-signing watches stretches back quite a bit, with some of the most famous examples including from retailers like Tiffany, Beyer, and Asprey. The addition of a stamp with these retailers’ names gave credibility to the watchmakers, in an era when there was no brick-and-mortar representative for brands like Rolex or Patek Philippe just yet.
This reference 3820 has “Gübelin” stamped in capital letters just above the 6 o’clock numeral, indicating the retailer from which it originated from. Based in the Swiss city of Lucerne, the company is responsible for helping spread the Patek Philippe name throughout eastern Switzerland, and primarily to the German-speaking world.
The design of this ref. 3820 is quintessentially classic, combining a gold case, with matte gold sheen on the dial, and gold Breguet-style numerals. The piece features a combination of brushed and polished surfaces, which creates a surprisingly rich interplay of textures that becomes apparent when light sweeps across it at different angles. The polished Breguet-style hands are balanced by a dotted minute track runs around the outermost section of the dial.
The crown features the signature Calatrava Cross, a motif repeated across the series, and to further add to the piece’s classicism, it also features teardrop-shaped lugs, a common feature on vintage pieces. Thanks to its relatively small size, at 32mm in diameter, the piece retains its vintage roots and is both a restrained and archetypically traditional example.
This Patek Philippe Ref. 3820 is powered by the calibre 177, a manually wound, ultra-thin movement first introduced in 1977. The movement was derived from the ultra-thin Frederic Piguet calibre 21 and has a thickness of only 1.77mm. The watch is fitted with 18 jewels, has a power reserve of 44 hours, and beats at approximately 3Hz.
This Patek Philippe Ref. 3820 is accompanied by its original leather box, leather folio and Certificate of Origin (stamped by the retailer, that also confirms that it was first sold in 1987).
If sold within the United Kingdom, this Patek Philippe Ref.3820 will be subject to 20% VAT.
Champagne dial, double signature
Brown leather strap, Patek Philippe black alligator strap, yellow gold buckle
Box & Papers:
Original leather box, leather folio, Certificate of Origin
This Patek Philippe Calatrava 3820 is in very good condition overall, with a few superficial marks throughout consistent with minimal wear. The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.
We stand by the quality of all of our pre-owned watches and mechanical objects. If something goes wrong, we’ll always strive to remedy the situation in a timely manner and to the best of our ability. The satisfaction and trust of our clients is of the highest importance, to everyone at A Collected Man.
All of our pre-owned watches have undergone thorough, non-invasive mechanical inspections and have been serviced, if appropriate, to ensure that they meet our highest standards of timekeeping and functionality.
Our pre-owned watches, unless stated otherwise, are covered by either a full or a limited twenty-four month warranty. This excludes any damage sustained due to improper use or accident. Due to their age, some pre-owned watches should not be subjected to the same conditions as when new.
Any of our pre-owned watches which have been serviced by their respective manufacturer, will carry the manufacturer’s servicing guarantee. This is separate and supersedes, the standard warranty offered by A Collected Man. Please see our Terms & Conditions for further information. You can write to us directly at email@example.com, for further clarification.
A Collected Man is also an authorised retailer for a number of watchmaking brands. These watches are covered by the warranty from the original manufacturer.
We offer complimentary worldwide delivery on our watches. If ordering from overseas, delivery will depend on the value of the timepiece and the destination. All import taxes and duties are the responsibility of the buyer.
If ordering from the UK before 1 PM, your watch will be sent the same working day. The courier will depend on the value of the watch, with all watches delivered the next working day.
Please note that pre-owned goods (in the United Kingdom) are subject to a marginal rate of VAT, which can not be reclaimed. For further information, please seehere.