A Historic Lineage
This Patek Philippe 3796 is a direct descendant of the Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 96, a series which was first introduced in the 1930s. The Calatrava was the first model released after the manufacture was bought over by Charles and Henri Stern, with the intention of breathing new life into the brand. Looking back, this original design is considered by many as the ultimate blueprint for a time-only dress watch. Since its inception, the Calatrava has taken on many different forms, including in this charming piece, which is encased in platinum and has an ivory white dial, with striking diamond index markers.
The Ref. 3796 was in production between 1982 to 1999, representing the “neo-vintage” movement that bridges both vintage and modern timepieces. It also maintains the same size as the original Calatravas, as it is 31.5mm in diameter and has a thickness that is just under 7mm – which might be on the smaller side compared to today’s watches, though allows it to retain its vintage feel alongside its matching aesthetic.
This Ref. 3796 leans into the classic aesthetic embodied by Patek Philippe, taking many aesthetic cues from the manufacture's vintage pieces. Its silvered dial features subtle vertical brushing throughout, which creates some interesting effects when the watch interacts with the light at different angles, whilst on the wrist.
This piece is especially distinctive thanks to the diamonds used as index markers, which add a touch of sparkle to this traditional piece. The diamonds at 3, 9, and 12 o’clock are baguette-cut, while the others are in the style of a brilliant-cut. A small seconds sub-dial can be found near the bottom of the dial, in keeping with the Calatrava design. The dauphine-shaped hands are also typical of dress watches from this period, further adding to its vintage appeal.
This ref. 3796 is powered by a cal. 215PS movement, with a straight-line lever escapement, Gyromax balance, and 18 jewels. Introduced in 1975, this movement carries the Geneva Seal, which is unique in its accreditation as it focuses on the art of decorating a movement with finesse and skill, in the style of Genevan watchmaking.
This Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 3796 is accompanied by an Extract from the Archives that details the particulars of this watch, in addition to the date of sale. Included is our Luxembourg taupe strap in saffiano, in addition to the original Patek Philippe platinum buckle.
If sold within the United Kingdom, this Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 3796 will be subject to 20% VAT. Viewings are currently suspended for the time being.