Kikuchi Nakagawa Murakumo, Stainless Steel

The stainless steel case is just shy of 37mm, and stands just 8.5mm tall, including the box-style sapphire crystal that is so essential to the overall classic aesthetic the watchmakers represent. The case, made by Japanese specialists Matsuura Works, is entirely black polished in-house, to an extent rarely ever seen applied to external components. The effect is without blemish or strain, even when viewed closely under magnification. The flat bezel culminates in a sharp, precise end, marginally smaller in diameter than that of the mid-case. Reminiscent not just in aesthetics but also in structure to the Patek Philippe reference 96, the mid-case is where the lugs originate. They taper marginally, and curve down and - as is appropriate for a watch inspired by the 1930s - feature drilled-through ends. Also referencing the same era is the wide-set stance, thanks to the 22mm lug width. Attached to it is a black alligator strap, crafted by Matsushita-an, a specialist maker based in Tokyo. The caseback is simple – closed and mirror polished, secured by six equally polished screws.
 
The grained, matte black dial on this example, crafted by Kari Voutilainen’s Comblémine manufacture, wears a printed chapter of Breguet numerals in white lacquer. At 5 and 7 o’clock are solid white dots, instead of numerals. Outside this chapter runs a minute track, while the slightly recessed subsidiary seconds register has a sector style layout, also printed in white lacquer. The hands have been given particular attention – the hour hand features a bulbous stem that terminates in a spade-shape. The three-dimensional spade-end features a central ridge from which the rest of the structure swoops down. Similarly sculptural is the sword-style minutes hand. The feuille-style seconds hand, made from German silver, also has a similarly rounded profile. All are crafted by hand and beautifully polished black.

Obscured from view by the closed caseback is the Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier self-winding calibre KN001. The slim 29-jewel movement, that beats at 21,600 vibrations per hour, features a uni-directional micro-rotor, and a flat hairspring. It offers 48 hours of autonomy.

The Murakumo is the result of the collective efforts of watchmakers Tomonari Nakagawa, and the designer Yusuke Kikuchi. Nakagawa was originally trained to be a swordsmith, later applying his metal-work to watchmaking and finding employment with Citizen Watch Co. Nakagawa met Kikuchi in Paris, where the latter was attending watchmaking school, and subsequently worked in watch repair. Their shared sensibilities and appreciation, not just of watchmaking from the 1930s, but also of metal finishing, led them to create Kikuchi Nakagawa.
 
This watch not only represents the restrained and refined expression of Kikuchi and Nakagawa’s vision of modern watchmaking. It is possibly the only example of the Murakumo – a watch that has a currently closed waiting list – to appear publicly on the market.

Closer look

Condition

This Kikuchi Nakagawa Murakumo is in very good overall condition. The case and lugs show light superficial marks consistent with relative wear over time. More specifically, on the bezel and mid-case between the lugs at the 6 o'clock position, there is a small nick, though only noticeable under close inspection. The dial, hands and movement are free from any signs of imperfection

Warranty

The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.