F. P. Journe
Chronomètre Optimum | platinum

White Mother of Pearl

Regular price

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F. P. Journe
Chronomètre Optimum | platinum

White Mother of Pearl

Regular price

Believed to (currently) be the only one of its kind, this white mother of pearl Chronomètre Optimum is part of a small, yet significant collection of F.P. Journe watches, made with stone dials. Be it jade, ruby, lapis, Damascus steel or blackened-gold, the brand's exotic dials are true testament to the independent watchmaker's philosophy; continuous experimentation and refocusing in the art of craftsmanship. No two dials are alike. 

In the the late 1980s, François-Paul Journe envisioned the Chronomètre Optimum to be the watch that he would design for himself - “with three-hands, two mainsprings and a remontoir d'égalité”. It was then in 2001 that the original concept for the Chronomètre Optimum was reworked, taking over 10 years to reach production in 2012. 

In the design, Monsieur Journe used familiar pieces from the Chronomètre Souverain and Tourbillon. Like the Souverain, the Optimum utilises a double-barrel layout, operating in parallel. Borrowing from the tourbillon, the Optimum uses the one-second rementoir d'egalité system. The latter is displayed in one of two large apertures on the dial side, and it provides constant force to the escapement, acting as a transmission and balancing system for the transfer of power between the mainspring and the escapement. The patented, EBHP direct-impulse bi-axial escapement functions without any oil or any form of lubricant. Connected to this, is a "natural" deadbeat seconds, displayed through the caseback. 

The combination of these systems offers a more stable delivery of energy to the movement. According to Journe himself, the Optimum is thus the ultimate chronometer, achieved by the maximum possible reduction of internal friction in the movement. 

This manual-winding, Calibre 1510 is made from 18k rose gold, with fausses-côtes embellishments, constructed with 44 jewels, oscillating at a rate of 21,600 vibrations per hour. As expected from F. P Journe, the movement is expertly finished and elaborately decorated, with contrasts established between the circular graining on the baseplate and Genevan stripes on the bridges. 

Sized at a contemporary 40mm, this platinum Chronomètre Optimum features a rounded bezel, thin lugs and the manufactures' signature ‘flat crown’ with a rope-like pattern. The entire watch is polished and mirror-finished, while the crown itself is engraved. The white mother of pearl dial of this Chronomètre Optimum is the only known example produced for the reference to date, with a very small number of pieces having also been made with black mother of pearl dials.

The mother of pearl dial is an iridescent, opaque gemstone, with polychromatic qualities when exposed to light. For decades, dial-makers have experimented with a variety of stones, to add different colours and textures to dials. The process is time-consuming, costly and requires intricate, specialist skill, making them relatively rare. For this white mother of pearl dial Optimum, a precise part of the stone would’ve been chosen (with the most attractive colour and pattern), before cutting, grinding and polishing to an exact thickness, only fractions of a millimetre. The result, is an original display of craftsmanship and design.

The words "Invenit et Fecit" are inscribed above the two subsidiary dials (Latin for “Invented and Made”) in classic F.P Journe style - a nod to signing conventions of a century ago. The power-reserve indicator is located a 6 o’clock, heading from 0 to 40+. Impressively, the Chronomètre Optimum has a power-reserve of 70 hours, with 50 full-hours possible without any loss of amplitude.

The watch comes on an Istanbul strap with curved-ends (measuring 20 x 19mm), as well as the original dark brown alligator strap from F. P. Journe.

Viewings can be arranged in Central London by appointment.

Brand: F. P. Journe
Model: Chronomètre Optimum
Movement: manual-winding Calibre 1510
Functions: power reserve, hours, minutes, sub-seconds
Features: white mother of pearl dial, display-back
Case: 40 mm platinum
Crystal: sapphire front and back
Strap: curved Istanbul nubuck strap, grey alligator strap from F. P. Journe with platinum tang buckle 
Lug/buckle width: 20/19mm
Year: 2018
Box & papers: full set - box and papers
This pre-owned, F. P Journe Chronomètre Optimum watch is in mint condition and has perfect mechanical functionality. The watch comes as a full set, with box and papers from the manufacture. This watch comes with an original grey F. P Journe alligator strap; our Istanbul nubuck leather strap and a matching platinum tang buckle

All of our pre-owned watches have undergone thorough mechanical inspections, including being ultrasonically cleaned, serviced and resealed if appropriate and tested for at least four days, to ensure they meet our highest timekeeping standards. Our pre-owned and vintage watches, unless stated otherwise, are covered by a full or a limited twenty-four month warranty. For example, due to their age, some vintage watches should not be subjected to the same conditions as when they were new. Please see our Terms & Conditions for further information. 

All of our new watches are covered by the warranty from the original manufacturer. Please contact us for further information.

During a period of adjustment, we are unable to ship watches to the EU. We continue to offer express delivery to all other countries.

If ordering from the UK before 1 PM, your watch will be sent the same working day. The courier will depend on the value of the watch, with all watches delivered the next working day.

If ordering from outside Europe, delivery will depend on choice of courier and destination. 

Please note that pre-owned goods (in the United Kingdom) are subject to a marginal rate of VAT, which can not be reclaimed. For further information, please see here.

You can cancel your order without giving any reason, within 14 days from the day the watch has been delivered to you.

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