Daniel Roth C147 Chronograph, White Gold

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This Daniel Roth Chronograph is an attractive example that features a monochromatic dial with blue accents. The chronograph is an archetypal example of Roth’s work, and possesses an attractive Clous de Paris dial.

The Story of Daniel Roth

In 1989, Daniel Roth decided to establish his own manufacture. One of the first truly independent watchmakers working under his own name, he created Breguet-inspired pieces, with a twist.

Whilst he launched his brand with a tourbillon, he released two subsequent models in 1990, which hinted at the first steps of a coherent collection. These were manually wound chronographs and an automatic time-only models. As with his tourbillon, Roth used a Lemania ébauche for his chronograph, the 2320. This placed it alongside other chronographs from the period which used a similar base calibre, from manufactures such as Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin or Roger Dubuis.

Beyond being one of the finest manual-winding calibers of the time, the use of the Lemania 2320 is especially compelling in Daniel Roth’s case. Indeed, the watchmaker helped develop and refine many of the Lemania calibers, after the movement manufacturer was acquired by Breguet.

Bearing an extremely low production number, below 60, the piece represents some of the earliest of Roth’s work. It features many of Roth’s signature design cues, such as the combination of curves and lines of the double-ellipse case, sharply engine-turned dial, and rich array of dial configurations. The dial also features Clous de Paris-style finishing, which was only used on the earliest pieces produced by the watchmaker, with the more common pinstripe pattern appearing later in the production cycle.

With this particular piece, the sub-dials are an identical shade of grey to the rest of the dial, creating a monochromatic aesthetic that blends in seamlessly against the case. The blued hands provide an attractive touch of colour, while the number of the piece and Daniel Roth’s signature are reminiscent of vintage-styled pieces.