Daniel Roth
Chronograph BB 2147 | platinum

Regular price

Click for 360° view

Daniel Roth
Chronograph BB 2147 | platinum

Regular price

This manually-wound Daniel Roth Chronograph BB 2147, powered by the venerable Lemania 2320, is one of the earliest wristwatches to have left the eponymous brand. Trained at Audemars Piguet and responsible for the resuscitation of Breguet, Roth offered a creative take on traditional, Breguet-inspired styling, of which this piece is an enduring testament.

The Story of Daniel Roth
Daniel Roth was born into a family with deep horological roots, with his grandfather and great-grandfather both working as watchmakers in Neuchâtel, Switzerland. Following this path, he completed his technical apprenticeship in Nice, before fulfilling his ambition of moving to the Vallée de Joux, one of the world’s watchmaking epicentres. He joined Audemars Piguet at a young age, at a time where he was the only watchmaker who didn’t come from Le Brassus, the brand’s historic home.

Following seven years at Audemars Piguet, Roth was noticed by the Chaumet brothers, the then owners of Breguet. In the midst of the Quartz Crisis, they wanted to restore the brand to its former glory and were looking for a Master Watchmaker who could help. Inspired by the work of the famous watchmaker, Roth agreed to help resuscitate the manufacture, though only after going back to school to further study Breguet’s archives and techniques. Over fourteen years, he would help rebuild the watchmaker, cementing the style, finishing and complications in wristwatch form.

In 1989, Daniel Roth decided to establish his own manufacture. One of the first truly independent watchmakers working under his own name, he created Breguet-inspired pieces, with a twist. He cemented aesthetic codes which are distinctively his own, from the double-ellipse case to the sharply executed pinstripe guilloché dials used on some of his models. Though his output was limited, it was plentiful in its diversity and inventiveness, from tourbillons to chronographs. Daniel Roth was one of the key brand names of independent watchmaking in the 1990s, alongside Franck Muller, Roger Dubuis and Francois-Paul Journe, among others. In 2000, the company was sold to Bulgari, with the watchmaker no longer being involved from that point onwards.

The Design
This manually-wound Daniel Roth Chronograph BB 2147 is a quintessential execution of the watchmaker’s style. The dial features a sharply executed pinstripe guilloché pattern, which complements the brushed chapter ring and chronograph counters. The contrast in finishing, as well as the layout on several levels, gives a satisfying depth to the design.

The dial is signed “DANIEL ROTH” at 12 o’clock and “NUMERO XXX” at 6 o’clock, where the watch’s unique number is displayed. The lance-shaped hands, another visual inspiration from the Abraham-Louis Breguet, are rendered in steel.

The platinum double-ellipse case of the BB 2147 is unique in its execution. Neither round nor rectangular, it balances the two different shapes, complemented by a stepped bezel and sharp, straight lugs. The chronograph pushers, on the right-hand side of the case, repeat this double-ellipse shape, lending balance to the overall design. Measuring 38mm x 35mm in diameter, with a thickness of 10mm, the watch sits comfortably on the wrist.

The Movement
Assembled by hand in the brand’s Vallée du Joux workshop, this Daniel Roth Chronograph BB 2147 is powered by a finely-finished Lemania 2320 movement (similar to the calibers used in the Patek Philippe 5070 and Roger Dubuis Hommage Chronographs).

Beyond being one of the finest manual-winding calibers of the time, the use of the Lemania 2320 is especially compelling in Daniel Roth’s case. Indeed, the watchmaker helped develop and refine many of the Lemania calibers, after the movement manufacturer was acquired by Breguet.

The complexity of the movement is concealed beneath a platinum solid case-back, featuring a 21 jewel, straight-line lever escapement, a monometallic balance adjusted to 5 positions, a self-compensating Breguet spring and swan-neck micrometer regulator. Aesthetically, the caliber is finished to the highest standards. The movement features exquisite chamfering on all angles, polishing and decoration, in the form of Geneva striping.

The Set
This Daniel Roth Chronograph BB 2147 is accompanied by its Certificate of Origin and Ownership, as well as its Club Daniel Roth paperwork. The paperwork, signed by Roth himself, confirms the unique serial number of the watch. It also comes with its original inner and outer boxes.

It comes on a bespoke 20 x 16mm Helsinki strap, with curved ends, as well as the original yellow gold deployante buckle.

Viewings are currently suspended for the time being.
Brand: Daniel Roth
Model: Chronograph BB 2147
Movement: manual-winding Daniel Roth calibre, based on Lemania 2320
Functions: chronograph, hours, minutes, sub-seconds
Features: double-ellipse case, black dial
Case: 38mm x 35mm diameter, 10mm thickness, platinum
Crystal: sapphire front and back
Strap: bespoke 20 x 16mm Helsinki strap, platinum pin buckle.
Year: circa 1994
Box & papers: Certificate of Origin and OwnershipClub Daniel Roth paperwork, inner and outer boxes
This Daniel Roth Chronograph BB 2147 is in very good condition, showing a number of surface blemishes on the case throughout consistent with regular wear. Aside from superficial marks on the bezel and lug portions, there are also imperfections visible on the lugs, case and bezel sides, which are small yet noticeable. On the reverse side, the lugs show signs of previous strap changes. The brushed caseback is very nicely preserved, with only light scratches and perfectly crisp hallmarks and engraving. It is guaranteed for authenticity and comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man.

All of our pre-owned watches have undergone thorough mechanical inspections, including being ultrasonically cleaned, serviced and resealed if appropriate and tested for at least four days, to ensure they meet our highest timekeeping standards. Our pre-owned and vintage watches, unless stated otherwise, are covered by a full or a limited twenty-four month warranty. For example, due to their age, some vintage watches should not be subjected to the same conditions as when they were new. Please see our Terms & Conditions for further information. 

All of our new watches are covered by the warranty from the original manufacturer. Please contact us for further information.

We offer complimentary worldwide delivery on our watches. If ordering from overseas, delivery will depend on the value of the timepiece and the destination. All import taxes and duties are the responsibility of the buyer.

If ordering from the UK before 1 PM, your watch will be sent the same working day. The courier will depend on the value of the watch, with all watches delivered the next working day.

Please note that pre-owned goods (in the United Kingdom) are subject to a marginal rate of VAT, which can not be reclaimed. For further information, please see here

You can cancel your order without giving any reason, within 14 days from the day the watch has been delivered to you.

A Collected Man

A Collected Man

We offer a bespoke service

Learn More