MOVEMENT
When talking about any examples of fine horology, let alone exceptional watches like these, you have to start by looking at the movement. A noteworthy evolution of the calibre found in the first Chronomètre Contemporain, the RRCC02 has some key changes that should be highlighted to show how far Rexhepi has come over the past four years.
The first point of difference is to be found under the top bridge, and is evident by the addition of a second jewel and pivot under the watchmaker’s signature. This, of course, shows that this is a double-barrel movement, keeping the power reserve high – 82 hours – while allowing the new feature on this watch, the deadbeat seconds, to run smoothly. The additional main spring drives the power-hungry deadbeat seconds, found in the sub-dial at six o’clock, through its own gear train. This is an unusual way to construct this hacking mechanism, but one which only adds to the elegance of the movement’s architecture. Fans of the original model will also be pleased to know that the zero-reset function can still be found here.
This second gear train can be seen through the sapphire caseback, as it drives the star wheel in the star-and-flit mechanism, causing the jumping of the seconds hand. Something that has been long remarked upon about Rexhepi’s work is the quality of the finishing; here, this reputation is only reinforced. Broad, perfectly executed Côtes de Genève cover the majority of the visible flat surfaces, providing a satisfying contrast to the high shine of the two black polished bridges.
As you get closer to this new calibre, you also notice an evolution to the execution of the anglage. The wheels of the two going trains contain 140 individually hand-polished interior angles. Creating these broad, rounded edges on both bridges and wheels manually is a labour-intensive process but gives the most visually pleasing outcome. The main plates and bridges of this movement are made from unleaded German silver, while all the black polished components are stainless steel.
Showcasing the integration of unobtrusive complications into a calibre’s architecture without disrupting the visual balance, all while displaying the highest quality in finishing, this movement is perhaps the clearest distillation of the watchmaker’s vision and ability.
DIAL
Originally offered to select clients, only 10 of these Diamant examples in the black dial and platinum case configuration will be created. The overall aesthetic is in the vein of the gentleman’s mid-century dress watches and fits remarkably well with the Chronomètre Contemporain II aesthetic. Perhaps owing to the popularity of the Diamant, in 2024, coinciding with the year’s Watches & Wonders fair, Rexhepi teased the Chronomètre Contemporain II Rubis – the rose-gold case and white dial with attractive, pomegranate-shaded ruby batons.
On the outside of the dial lies a sector chapter of minute markers followed by the diamond indices. The chapter is lined so the batons in the northern half of the dial are contained within it, while the batons in the southern half are on the outside of this line. This serves to orient the eye even at a quick glance. Both hours and minutes chapters are interrupted by a subsidiary seconds register, and within it lies a chemin de fer track of seconds and a continuation of the line delineating the hours.
The hands, beautifully sculpted, bring to mind those on marine chronometres of old. The hour hand has a curved spade tip, while the minutes indicator simply narrows to a point. The slim baton seconds marker has a bulbous counterweight.
One area of difference shared between these dials and which has evolved from the first series is the loss of the metal ring surrounding the sub-dial. This slightly recessed sub-dial is made as part of the rest of the dial, a tricky operation in comparison to the alternative of making it as a separate piece and soldering it on. Removing the surrounding ring and producing it in a single piece only adds to the seamless finish of this dial.
CASE
As with the movement, the 38mm case feels like a natural progression from its earlier iteration, with slight modifications to help differentiate it and manifest the evolution of the workshop. As many will be aware, Rexhepi has been able to lean on the wealth of knowledge and experience of Jean-Pierre Hagmann since he joined the young independent workshop in late 2019.
Hagmann’s work has become legendary among collectors in today’s market. Known as one of the last master casemakers, he is keeping traditions alive that would otherwise have been lost to the annals of time. Hagmann has crafted cases for brands such as Audemars Piguet, Vacheron Constantin, and, most famously, Patek Philippe only working with the most historically accurate techniques. This approach resonates entirely with the exceptional construction of the rest of the watch.
All of the Chronomètre Contemporain II cases will bear the highly desirable JHP stamp on the inside of a lug, signalling that Hagmann developed this case (which took two years to do) using a specially developed oval tool. While there have been no radical changes made in terms of the design, it feels finely tuned and wonderfully proportioned. The case is made up of 15 individual components, with slightly elongated lugs that are individually soldered to the middle of the case. This is paired with a slightly more pronounced dome to the crystal.
OUR STORY
Our appreciation of Rexhep Rexhepi’s work stretches back to his earliest work under AKRIVIA, with a bold and exceptional interpretation of modern watchmaking. Over the years, his work has continued to challenge boundaries, introducing a new angle on vintage inspiration. The Chronometre Contemporain II is the latest evolution of his watchmaking vision, demonstrating an excellent fusion of various crafts.
A Collected Man is an authorised retailer for AKRIVIA and Rexhep Rexhepi. Learn more about the watchmaker and brand here.
