F. P. Journe
Tourbillon Remontoir | Ruthenium dial | 40mm platinum

XX/99-01T

Regular price


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F. P. Journe
Tourbillon Remontoir | Ruthenium dial | 40mm platinum

XX/99-01T

Regular price


This Limited Edition F. P. Journe Ruthenium Tourbillon Souverain watch is one of only ninety-nine pieces, created between 2001 and 2003. Each of the series is individually numbered (XX/99-01T) and cased in platinum. The pairing of a quintessential complication by Francois-Paul Journe with the attractiveness of ruthenium coating on the dial and movement makes the watch both mechanically and visually impressive. 

The Ruthenium Collection

Five watches were chosen for the Ruthenium Collection, representing the latter part of F.P. Journe’s brass movement production, and this was the first time that any of Journe’s watches were made with ruthenium-coated dials and movement plates. Four of the five pieces, including this Tourbillon Remontoir d’Egalite, have been discontinued in the collection. Moreover, the Ruthenium Tourbillon Souverain, with open remontoire at six o'clock, is the only example of the original Tourbillon made with a 40mm case.

In his Reference Points on the F.P. Journe Tourbillon, Ben Clymer of HODINKEE described the Ruthenium Collection Tourbillon as such,

"Let's assume you will not be able to purchase one of the two prototype wristwatches, or one of the 20 Souscription watches – you are still left with a wide and varied range of watches over which you can truly obsess. The easiest collectible reference T to spot is the ruthenium limited edition (...) They were produced in 2001 and, to many, they're the next most desirable Journe tourbillon after a super early example of a T."

A quintessential complication

Monsieur Journe’s mastery is evident in the look and feel of his craftsmanship - inspired by his immediate works after graduation, restoring 18th and 19th-century marine chronometers and pocket watches. The earliest works of François-Paul Journe effortlessly blend traditional watchmaking with modern Haute-horology, in perfect harmony.

The Tourbillon Souverain is quintessentially an F.P Journe, in both its design language and movement. The Tourbillon Souverain was the very first production wristwatch from Montres Journe, originally made between 1999 and 2003, with a remontoir d’egalité, rather than a dead-seconds complication.

The Design

Housed in a 40 mm dress watch case, the watch is made distinctive by the ruthenium coated dial. The charcoal grey surface is delicately textured, giving the dial a mixture of tones and added depth. The ruthenium plating reflects light differently, transitioning to a smokey, silver hue from different angles. A separate silver guilloché dial for the hours and minutes is displayed to the right side of the dial. The words ‘Invenit et Fecit’ are inscribed below the tourbillon (Latin for ‘Invented and Made’ or more literally 'Designed and built by F.P. Journe') in classic F.P. Journe style - a nod to signing conventions of a century ago. At twelve o’clock, a power reserve indicator of forty-two hours is also shown.

The one-second remontoir d’egalité system is displayed in one of two apertures on the dial side, providing constant force to the escapement, acting as a transmission and balancing system for the transfer of power between the mainspring and the escapement.

The Movement

This manual-winding, F.P. Journe caliber 1498 tourbillon movement is ruthenium-plated brass, with Côtes de Genève, constructed with 25 jewels and a shock-absorber mechanism. It further features a straight-line lever escapement, and monometallic 4-arm balance with 4 timing weights, adjusted to 5 positions. It includes a self-compensating free-sprung flat balance spring. The movement is engraved ‘Chronometre A Tourbillon’ and ’Remontoir d’Egalité’.

In 2004, Journe began manufacturing movements from 18-carat gold; however - interestingly - it is François-Paul Journe’s earliest brass-movement pieces that command more interest from collectors. It’s estimated that only 2,000 brass-movement examples were produced, across all lines, and were manufactured exclusively between 2001 and circa 2004. These earlier F. P Journe pieces are highly sought-after, owing to their placement within the brand’s history and rarity. The Ruthenium Series only enhances these qualities, using the light-absorbing dark metal to create a unique aesthetic.

The Set

Combining many of the most desirable aspects of F.P. Journe’s manufacture, the Ruthenium Tourbillon Souverain continues to represent a rare opportunity to acquire something of a landmark piece in the history of the brand. Ninety-nine examples may have been produced, though only a handful of these have reached the market since, demonstrating the affection many owners of the series clearly have for the execution of these models.

This Limited Edition, F. P. Journe Ruthenium Tourbillon Souverain is accompanied by its original Ruthenium Collection boxes, certificate of origin and accompanying materials within the complete set.

Brand: F. P. Journe
Model: Ruthenium Tourbillon Souverain - 01T
Movement: mechanical manual-winding Cal. 1498
Functions: tourbillon, remontoir d’egalité, hours, minutes, subsidiary seconds
Features: power reserve display, ruthenium-coated dial, ruthenium-coated brass-movement, display back, blue steel hands
Case: 40 mm platinum
Crystal: sapphire front and display-back
Strap: Zürich taupe grained leather strap, black F. P Journe alligator strap with platinum buckle, additional platinum/white gold deployant clasp 
Lug/buckle width: 20/19mm
Year: sold in 2006
Box & papers: full set - original box and papers
This Ruthenium Tourbillon Souverain is in excellent condition. The case has been remarkably well preserved, with minor signs of very light wear. The set includes all of the accompanying materials which accompany the Ruthenium Collection, including the original box and accessories. The original stamped paperwork is also included.

Whilst the calibre 1498 tourbillon movement of this Ruthenium Tourbillon Souverain is functioning well, A Collected Man is unable to provide a guarantee of timekeeping accuracy.

All of our pre-owned watches have undergone thorough mechanical inspections, including being ultrasonically cleaned, serviced and resealed if appropriate and tested for at least four days, to ensure they meet our highest timekeeping standards. Our pre-owned and vintage watches, unless stated otherwise, are covered by a full or a limited twenty-four month warranty. For example, due to their age, some vintage watches should not be subjected to the same conditions as when they were new. Please see our Terms & Conditions for further information. 

All of our new watches are covered by the warranty from the original manufacturer. Please contact us for further information.

We offer worldwide delivery on all of our watches.

If ordering from the UK or Europe before 1 PM, your watch will be sent the same working day. The courier will depend on the value of the watch, with all watches delivered the next working day.

If ordering from outside Europe, delivery will depend on choice of courier and destination. 

Please note, that prices are quoted gross of VAT (unless expressly stated otherwise) and that preowned goods (in the United Kingdom) are subject to a marginal rate of VAT, which can not be reclaimed. For further information, please see here.

You can cancel your order without giving any reason, within 14 days from the day the watch has been delivered to you.

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