Jaeger-LeCoultre Grand Reverso, 1931 Ultra-Thin, 18k White Gold

First revealed in 2012, the Grand Reverso 1931 Ultra-Thin came a year after the first Ultra-Thin Tribute to 1931 was unveiled, in celebration of the line’s 80th year. The modern watch closely resembled the original from 1931 in dial design, wearing just the Reverso mark and simple, applied markers.

The Reverso, as the well-worn story goes, was born out of a demand from British officers stationed in India who often damaged their watch glass during polo matches. Jacques-David LeCoultre tasked French industrial designer René-Alfred Chauvot with the challenge, and he devised a wristwatch with a swivelling case, allowing the watch face to be reversed into an outer carriage, thereby protecting the glass and dial. Initially, Chauvot held the patent for the design and since LeCoultre was sourcing movements from Tavannes to put inside the Reverso, the brand refrained from putting its mark on the dial.

This Grand Reverso 1931 Ultra-Thin follows in that tradition. The clean silver-white dial has a subtle granular texture to it. It wears the Reverso mark in midnight blue in the top half and “Swiss” sign at 6 o’clock. The only Arabic numeral is at 12 o’clock while the other hour markers are simple, transferred indices, all in the same shade of midnight blue. The sword-style hands are heat-blued. On the outside runs a railroad-style minute track, a motif that carries through in the square subsidiary seconds register. Inside the railroad track are printed indices. The minimal seconds hand features a prominent counterweight.

The 46.8mm x 27.4mm case has a reassuring weight, owing to it being forged from 18k white gold. The watch face slides right smoothly as you reverse it, revealing the inside face of the outer shell, decorated with engine-turning. This part of the watch also wears the hallmarks of the brand and the precious metal the case is made from. Reversing the watch face reveals a blank canvas where the new owner can etch something meaningful to them.

The crown is large and easy to operate, winding the manual in-house Jaeger LeCoultre calibre 822, which offers a power reserve of 45 hours from a single barrel. The movement, which comprises of 134 parts, is rhodium-plated and features 21 working jewels.

The caseback of the outer carriage features satin-finishing with markings – including the brand and Reverso marks along with the reference number, water resistance and seals of the 1,000-hour test the movement undergoes and country of origin – all etched in.

If sold within the United Kingdom, this Jaeger LeCoultre Grand Reverso 1931 will be subject to 20% VAT.

Closer look

This JLC Reverso 1931 is in very good condition overall. Light superficial marks are found on the case and lugs, likely worn on a handful of occasions. The textured dial and blued steel and are free from any imperfection. The hallmarks and engravings are crisp and well defined. The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.