Reviving Complicated Watchmaking
The perpetual calendar has always been one of the most classic complications in horology. It was first integrated into a wristwatch in 1925, by none other than Patek Philippe. For much of the 20th century, perpetual calendars remained scarce, on account of their niche appeal and the specialised skillset needed to design and assemble one. In the wake of the Quartz Crisis, these complicated pieces continued to be exceedingly rare, as their very purpose came under threat. Indeed, this seismic event had decimated the watchmaking industry, with the number of watchmakers in Switzerland having dropped from 1,600 to 600.
In 1985, against this challenging backdrop, IWC introduced the Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar reference 3750, combining a perpetual calendar and chronograph. This was a rather audacious move, carried out under created under the stewardship of Günter Blümlein as CEO of IWC, with the technical guidance of Kurt Klaus. For those not familiar with him, Blümlein was one of the main champions of mechanical watchmaking in the wake of the Quartz Crisis, having helped resuscitate the fortunes of Jaeger-LeCoultre, IWC and A. Lange & Söhne.
Kurt Klaus based the movement on a heavily modified Valijoux 7750, developing an in-house perpetual calendar module to sit on top of It, resulting in the calibre IWC 79261. According to the brand, it was during long walks with his dogs that Klaus mentally projected a new kind of perpetual calendar module, that would only include 81 individual parts and function autonomously, with virtually no correction, until 2499. It was also designed with ease of use in mind, such that all the functions - date, day, month, moon phase and year - are synchronised and can advanced together via the crown.
A Bold Design
This version of the Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph combines a black dial with a striking rose gold case and bracelet. The perpetual calendar functions are laid out in a clear and intuitive manner. The sub-dials are in rose gold, with a subtle pattern in radiating concentric circles. The moonphase is at 12 o’clock, while the day, month, and date sub-dials are at 9, 6, and 3 o’clock respectively. Additionally, the sub-dials also double up by indicating the chronograph functions. The subdial displays are in German - one of the four languages that this piece was made available in - with a counter indicating the year is placed at the lower left side of the dial.
Meanwhile, the hour and minute hands are in a matching rose-gold metal as the case, and are lume-filled, as are the index markers, allowing for legibility in low-light conditions. The watch also features a “beads of rice” bracelet, which is original to the watch, a design choice that highlights the neo-vintage appearance of the watch. The case is classic, with a twist, being round in profile, with hooded lugs which elegantly blend into the bracelet. Overall, the combination or rose, black and the occasional red detail makes this pieces distinctive and captivating on the wrist.
The Movement
This IWC Da Vinci Ref. 9252 is powered by the self-winding calibre 79261, a self-winding chronograph movement that is fitted with a perpetual calendar module. The movement is fitted with 39 jewels, has a power reserve of 44 hours, and oscillates at 21600 vph.
The Set
This IWC Da Vinci Ref. 9252 comes with its original box, International Guarantee card (confirming sale in 1995), operating instructions, booklets and sales tag.
If sold within the United Kingdom, this IWC Da Vinci Ref. 9252 will be subject to 20% VAT.
