A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia, 'Darth', Platinum

£23,500
Reserved
Watchdrawer

The Saxonia was one of the four original models to be introduced at the relaunch of A. Lange & Söhne in 1994, having played a central role in reviving the German name. This particular variant, the ref. 105.035 "Darth"features the striking combination of a platinum case, black dial and white-on-black date discs. The distinctly monochromatic appearance has deservedly been given a cult status among collectors.

The Rebirth of A. Lange & Söhne 

The name Lange has been tied to watchmaking and the Saxony area of Germany for centuries. In the 1800s, Ferdinand Aldoph Lange – which is where the “A” in A. Lange & Söhne comes from – began his watchmaking journey under the tutelage of master watchmaker, Johann Christian Friedrich Gutkaes. Passed from father to son, the Lange name flourished, before encountering considerable obstacles during 20th century. The brand got caught-up in the turmoil caused by World War One, the financial crash of 1929, World War Two and was finally placed under the rule of the Soviet Union. The company was nationalised for the next 45 years, essentially spelling the end of the A. Lange & Söhne name. 

Years later, in 1990, the brand was resuscitated by the great-grandson of Ferdinand Adolph Lange, Walter, and watch industry veteran, Günter Blümlein. Blümlein, a Nuremberg native who grew up in post-War Germany, had previously overseen the resurgence of IWC and Jaeger-LeCoultre. This started the four-year journey that Lange and Blümlein would go on with their small team to bring the company back from the ashes, with the release of their first four models on the 24th October 1994. These innovative models, the Arkade, Saxonia, Tourbillon Pour le Mérite and the Lange 1all with their own distinctive visual language, marked the beginning of the manufacturers next chapter.

The "Darth" Saxonia

First introduced in 1994, the Saxonia was perhaps the most paired back and restrained model from the relaunch of the brand. From the big date borrowed from the Lange 1 to the small diamond markers identical to those found on the Tourbillon Pour le Mérite, the design of the early Saxonia pieces capture the spirit of the time. The round case, restrained sizing and symmetrical dial layout all combine to create a refined dress watch, suited to the tastes of the time. 

The first Saxonia, the ref. 102.001was introduced in yellow gold, with a silver dial and a closed caseback. Three years later, A. Lange & Söhne expanded the Saxonia collection, introducing platinum and white gold cases, as well as versions with integrated bracelets or set with precious gems. This particular model, the ref. 105.035was produced from 1998 to 2002, combining a platinum case with a striking black dial and matching date disc. With its monochromatic aesthetic, this is perhaps one of the most contemporary configurations found during the early days of A. Lange & Söhne, with a similar configuration of the Lange 1 having been produced around the same time.

The Design

This Saxonia features a symmetrical dial, which is both legible and aesthetically balanced. From the thickness of the various fonts to the masterful use of empty space, every aspect of the design feels thoroughly thought through. The A. Lange & Söhne signature is split in half, on either side of the dial, an unusual arrangement which is rarely found on watches from any period. The white printing used for the brand name, as well as the hour markers, stand out against the deep black background. Meanwhile, the diamond hour markers, as well as the hour, minutes and seconds hand are all made out of white gold, complementing the white metal case. The subsidiary seconds dial is subtly recessed, bringing an added depth and definition to the relatively paired back design. 

The single, quick change date pusher at two o'clock serves as a small reminder of the effectively engineered, highly practical complication A. Lange & Söhne added to an otherwise simplistic design. Measuring 34mm by 9mm, the case is made out of platinum - one of only two examples from the period to be made in this material - with this particular reference the only one to feature a contrasting black dial. The case features the brand’s distinctive 3 layered case design - bezel, mid-case and caseback - with stylised notched lugs separately attached, which are mirror polished and bevelled.

The Movement

The earliest Saxonia watches were powered by the rectangular Arkade caliber L911.3 which was used between 1994 and 1997. This was updated shortly thereafter with the circular L941.3, found in this Saxonia, the ref. 105.035Incidentally, this very movement is still used in modern Saxonia today, more than twenty years later. The movement beats at a frequency of 3Hz, whilst having a power reserve of 45 hours, and also integrating a hacking seconds mechanism.

The aesthetics of the movement are just as impressive as the mechanics, with chamfering and interior angles superbly hand-finished. Moreover, it features an artistic flourish, a balance-cock engraved by one of Lange’s master engravers. In fact, it is said that each individual watchmaker's unique engraving style can be identified as a result. The bridges and plates are made from German silver, an alloy of copper, nickel and zinc, with a warm silver tone that will develop a subtle patina over time.

If sold within the United Kingdom, this Saxonia ref. 105.035 will be subject to 20% VAT. Viewings are currently suspended for the time being.

Worth Reading

 

Brand: A. Lange & Söhne
Model: Saxonia ref. 105.035 "Darth"
Movement: mechanical manual-winding cal. L941.3
Functions: hours, minutes, sub-seconds, date
Features: black dial, black date disc, platinum case
Case: 33.9mm x 9.1mm
Crystal: sapphire front and back
Strap: black Milano saffiano strap, black A. Lange & Söhne alligator strap, signed manufacturers platinum tang buckle
Lug: 18mm (16mm buckle)
Year: c. 1998
Box & papers: outer box, inner box, leather holder, Saxonia manual, International Lange Guarantee Seal (signed bu Hübner, Germany)
This A. Lange & Söhne, Saxonia 105.035 is in very good condition overall, with the case hallmarks remaining crisp and deep. There are a few superficial marks throughout, consistent with light use. The watch is guaranteed for authenticity and comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man.