Founded in 2001 in Dresden, Saxony the independent house was helmed by Marco Lang, after Mirko Heyne left the following year to work at Nomos in nearby Glashütte. Lang, a fifth-generation watchmaker, who had got his start in precision mechanics, built the brand around the baroque spirit of Dresden, imbuing the technical finesse of the masters whose historic clocks and watches he had watched his father restore for the Dresden Art Chamber. He too would make earn his stripes in restoration before crafting watches under his own name. Lang & Heyne exhibited its first watches, the Friedrich August and the Johann, when the brand exhibited with the Academy of Independent Watchmakers (AHCI) at Baselworld in 2002. It still continues the tradition of naming its watches after nobility and those who made meaningful contributions to Saxon society.
While Lang too left the brand in 2019, this unique example was a result of his collaboration with a special client. Created over an 18-month period, it borrows elements that the commissioning client appreciated in various watches in the brand’s catalogue. At 39.2mm, the platinum case on this watch is most closely related to the ones seen on the Friedrich II and Friedrich III and is the most compact size the brand offers.
However, to accommodate the client’s requests the case was modified. The addition of a central seconds’ hand (which both the Friedrich II and II lack) added 0.3mm to the case height, while this example is one of the only ones that does without Lang & Heyne’s signature third lug. The lugs, with screwed pins, are short and straight and curve down. The signed onion crown is flanked by fin-shaped crown protectors.
The case, with its rounded bezel, straight flanks and the thin lip that runs around the display caseback, is thoroughly classical and beautifully finished in a high polish. It stands at 10.33mm tall.
The pristine enamel dial, built on a base of silver, is most closely related to the ones found in the Konrad. It has a prominent sunken centre where a pointer-style date complication typically resides. However, this complication has been jettisoned in this unique example. Printed here are the brand mark as well as the unique serial number. A precise chemin de fer track of black, printed minutes runs along the outer reaches of the dial, followed by a chapter of hand-printed Arabic numerals done in a baroque style. The hours and minutes hands have spade tips, a detail also found in the prominent counterweight on the seconds’ hand. The seconds hand progresses in precise one-second increments owing to its dead-beat nature. When the mainspring is running out of power this complication gives way to intermittent sweeping seconds which serves as a helpful visual reminded to wind the watch.
However, turning over to the movement side helps truly appreciate the degree of customisation. Combining elements from two movements, the calibre IV and V, Lang created an entirely novel engine to power this watch. This was done to address the client’s concerns that removing parts related to the date complication would be a half measure. The calibre features a specially designed free balance with a balance cock hand-engraved with a floral motif. The swan neck regulator is beautifully black polished while the balance staff is crowned with a diamond. The wheels are all crafted from gold, but the constant force mechanism located on top of the escapement wheel, that is also black polished. The one-second remontoir ensures a constant force on the balance, producing a stable amplitude towards the aim of superior chronometry. The calibre derives 48 hours of autonomy from a single barrel.
The movement, marked by its moustache-shaped anchor, is finished with silver graining, an aesthetic typical to Saxon watchmaking. It involves applying a powdered silver and salt mixture with a brush to create a grain like texture on the surface. This is then coated in gold to achieve the particular look. Hand-engraved on the baseplate, in beautiful calligraphy is the brand mark and the city where the manufacture is based. In this example, also present is the word “Remontoir 2” and the unique serial number, 00, also hand engraved.
The watch comes with a grained alligator-style black leather strap, and fresh spare. They are secured by a signed pin buckle also crafted from platinum.
