Franck Muller Perpetual Calendar Minute Repeater, Rose Gold

Raised in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, Franck Muller enrolled himself in the Geneva Watchmaking School at the age of 15. He followed this with a career in restoration, working with collectors and auction houses, building up a reputation for complications. This led to one of his most formative experiences maintaining and restoring watches in the Patek Philippe Collection, many of which sit in the Patek Philippe Museum today.

In 1984, Muller put together his mechanical and design abilities to create the first tourbillon wristwatch, with the regulating device displayed on the dial side. This was a novelty in an era in which complicated watchmaking had been falling out of favour for some time. Later, in 1991 he would launch his eponymous brand, styling himself the "Master of Complications".

In the intervening years, Muller created a small number of complicated watches that included minute repeaters as well as double-face chronographs. These pieces were distinct because they bore just the maker’s first name on the dial, and while Muller's work is often characterised by his experimental dials and tonneau-shaped cases, these Franck Genève watches were exceedingly classical and underpinned by ébauche calibres. They were also distinct because they featured cases by master Jean-Pierre Hagmann. 

This perpetual calendar minute repeater bears many of these prized qualities, while also showing several details that mark this apart from the example we have handled previously. This particular piece is one of the earliest examples we have seen. It comes with paperwork, issued years after the watch was created, that designates it as a prototype.  

Measuring 36mm across, the yellow gold Hagmann case is constructed in three parts. The bezel is rounded with gadroon-like steps and meets the fluted midcase in a lip. A similar lip, with a dip to accommodate the crown, paves the way to the closed caseback adorned with circular brushing. This part only bears the precious metal hallmarks. Inside the caseback is etched the familiar JHP mark of the casemaker. The crown is well proportioned and fluted. The correctors for the calendar function are beautifully integrated into the lip where the bezel meets the midcase.

The slider for the minute repeater is elegantly integrated in the left flank of the case. It is smooth to the touch and offers satisfying feedback. Pulling it down engages the sonnerie. This is a point distinction from the previous example we offered – on that, the slider had to be pushed up to engage the sonnerie. This difference is a function of the watchmaker employing different ébauche bases onto which he fitted his complications in a modular fashion. Muller created this perpetual calendar module 2-30 in conjunction with watchmaker Svend Andersen in 1984. Owing to the small size of his independent operation, he sourced ébauche calibres from a number of suppliers, including F. Piguet and LeCoultre.

The lugs, issuing from the midcase, are thin when viewed up top, with their robust structure visible only in profile. The top right and bottom left lugs wear precious metal hallmarks. The correctors for the perpetual calendar are minimal and well-integrated into the midcase. The 18mm lug width is furnished with a leather strap secured by a solid gold pin buckle.  

The dial wears a variety of patterns of engine turning – on the outer most reaches is a rim of vieux panier with a diamond Clous de Paris reserved for the central portion. The perpetual calendar registers wear décor flamme-style turning. A thin brushed chapter of black minute plots is followed by one of Roman hours. Each chapter, and the edges of the perpetual calendar registers, are delineated with sauté piqué rims. At 12 o’clock is the month indicator, with an integrated leap-year display; at 3 lies the date complication; 6 o’clock is home to the partially obscured moonphase; while at 9 lies the day display. The moonphase register also includes a raise plaque with the Franck Geneve mark. Consistent to the classical appearance, the hours and minutes hands are Breguet-style while the other displays are plied by simple pointers. All hands are heat blued.

While sheathed in a solid caseback, the manually wound calibre is finely finished. Its twin gongs produce a distinct and pleasing sonnerie, owing in no small part to the fine acoustics of Hagmann’s case. It is a lever escapement movement with 32 jewels.

This example is compelling for a multitude of factors. It represents the fruits of a collaboration between two of the most important protagonists of early independent watchmaking, cased by one of the greatest traditional makers of the latter half of the 20th century. While it is a pure expression of Muller’s classical basis, it’s unique mechanics, make this Perpetual Calendar Minute Repeater unique in its configuration. This is reflected in the brand designating it a prototype.  

If sold within the United Kingdom, this Franck Muller Perpetual Calendar Minute Repeater Prototype will be subject to 20% VAT

Closer look

Condition

This Franck Muller Perpetual Calendar Minute Repeater Prototype is in very good overall condition. Light superficial marks are found on the case with warm patina and oxidation. The dial, case, and lugs, are free from any signs of imperfections and have been well preserved. On the caseback and on the inside, the hallmarks and engravings remain crisp and well defined.

Warranty

The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.