Created between June of 2007 and December 2008, this Andersen Genève minute repeater is one of the most interesting and significant pieces even within the varied body of work he has produced in a career spanning almost five decades.
Commissioned by a group of clients who came upon a batch of vintage pocket watch calibres by makers such as LeCoultre, Lemania and F. Piguet, each piece was made to unique specifications Anderson agreed with individual collectors. The watchmaker enlisted the services of famed casemaker Jean-Pierre Hagmann for these pieces.
This features a large, 47mm case crafted from yellow gold. It is classical in its appearance, featuring a flat midcase sandwiched by a rounded bezel with a fluted edge and display caseback, with both parts extending marginally past the edge of the midcase. It bears almost no indication that the bezel is linked to the sonnerie complication – turning this part clockwise 90º engages it.
The fluted edge of the bezel aids ergonomics while the turning action feels well machined and reassuring. The caseback rim is simple and hand-engraved with the words ‘piece unique’. The lugs, although they span the width of the midcase, are slim when viewed on the wrist. Their robust structure only becomes apparent in profile. They have a bulbous end, another classical detail Hagmann retained. The lugs stand 23mm apart and feature a leather strap secured by a gold pin buckle. In between the bottom lugs are the hallmarks of the precious metal the case is made from and the artisan who crafted it. The crown is large, knurled and unsigned and offers satisfying feedback when winding.
Balancing the classicality of the case is the sumptuous aventurine dial, graduated with hash-style minutes ring and a full chapter of Roman hours. The watchmaker’s signature A-shaped hours and minutes hands are in gold.
The manually wound vintage pocket watch calibre has been extensively refinished – it features bridges and plates adorned with Côtes de Genève and a baseplate with perlage. The edges of the bridges and plates have been bevelled and polished by hand. The hammers for the sonnerie are black polished. They interact with a gong that runs the perimeter of the calibre. Despite the exhibition caseback, the sonnerie is resounding and reverberates through the sound stage that is the finely crafted case. Each note detailing the hour, quarter hours and minutes is distinctly audible.
This Andersen Genève minute repeater comes with its original warranty paperwork. It is a singular example of haute horologerie from the first decade of this century. As the joint effort of one of the original independent watchmakers and best known traditional casemaker, it is as special as it is significant to horological history.