Kari Voutilainen followed the tried-and-true path for modern independent makers – learning his craft at the restoration house of Michel Parmigiani after being a student, and later an instructor at Watchmakers of Switzerland Training and Educational Program (WOSTEP). The completeness of his skill as a watchmaker was suited to a career as an independent watchmaker, a path he has continued on with a degree of success seldom seen in this segment of the market. His operation now includes both a specialist dial and guillochage concerns in addition to the workshop in Môtiers.
First produced in 2011, the Vingt-8 has gone on to become the backbone of the Finnish watchmaker’s catalogue of offerings. This 39mm case, forged from titanium, a metal rarely found in Voutilainen’s repertoire. It features a three-part case construction – the rounded dial- and movement-sides bezels meet the midcase in prominent lips. All parts of the case are polished, save for the rim of the display caseback which wears circular satination.
The midcase is home to the brand’s signature teardrop shaped lugs as well as the well-proportioned, knurled crown. The watch is furnished with a black, large grain, padded strap secured by a titanium pin buckle. The crown is set with a sapphire cabochon, a detail that has only appeared on some examples of the Masterpiece Chronograph series as well as a small smattering of unique pieces.
The watches produced in this first titanium series were typically paired with grey dials, creating an even, monochrome appearance. This example is notably different. Made by special request, it features a two-tone grey and white, tuxedo-style colourway created on the solid silver base. The outer silver minutes chapter is punctuated with minute plots at intervals of five. The grey sector, decorated with clous de Paris style engine turning, is home to the hours chapter – it features a quarter of applied Arabic markers with the rest represented by applied baton markers. The innermost portion features basket weave engine turning. Both patterns are achieved by hand tools.
The subsidiary register features an outer silver chapter delineated with Arabic seconds and plots while the inner section features a petite tapisserie engine turning pattern in grey.
The dial has a two-part construction, to achieve the twin-shade colourway. The way the dial is constructed, the variation in textures and the twin shades all compound to create a qualitatively richer dial appearance.
The silvered hands feature blued stainless-steel observatoire inserts and capped bases. The seconds hand is silvered with a blued base. The blued details lend a contemporary edge to an otherwise classical dial.
On display is the calibre 28, a movement developed entirely in-house and regulated by the double-wheel escapement, another Voutilainen calling card. It features a free-sprung balance with Breguet overcoil, a Grossmann interior curve, and direct impulse escapement with twin escape wheels. Not only is it well engineered, it is also extensively hand finished. The plates are decorated with the Côtes de Geneve, while the visible wheels wear a range of finishes – from black polishing to radial brushing. The edges of the bridges feature anglage and the balance is beautifully black polished. The calibre is multi-layered in its arrangement, something that gives it visual depth. Screwed on plaques detail the brand mark as well as the movement serial number.
This example of the Vingt-8 comes with its original outerbox as well as the wooden Vichard innerbox. The set features the original hand-signed retail paperwork from 2017.
It is a study of poised contradictions – it cases undeniable horological heft inside an ultra-light body while upending the classicality of its dial colourway with wonderful texture created by hand tools. All of this is crowned with a sapphire cabochon. Despite this, none of this Vingt-8 feels overwrought. The opposing elements are balanced with masterful restraint.
