Daniel Roth Retrograde, Ref. 2127, Platinum

The Retrograde reference 2127 is prime example of Daniel Roth’s ability to distil aesthetic codes and then utilise them to wholly novel effect. The watchmaker famously studied Breguet’s history before creating that brand’s modern aesthetic, which endures to this day. For the 2127, Roth also drew inspiration from the hours display in fellow Breguet enthusiast Dr George Daniels’ One Minute Tourbillon.

Arranged in a fan-style layout, the hours advance on a scale that begins and ends at 6 o’clock. The hours hand progresses in clean, one-hour increments, making the journey back to the start of the scale at 6 o’clock. It is reminiscent of humankind’s earliest attempts at reading time by following the trajectory of the sun as it made its way across the sky over the course of the day.

The special time display is paired with Roth’s signature double ellipse case and pinstripe guilloché dial. Powering it is an extensively reimagined iteration of the manually wound Lemania 27LN. The 2127 was first released in 1991, and serially produced from 1993.

This example is among the earliest produced, as evidenced by its low serial number and paperwork signed by Roth. Offered by historic Milanese retailer Pisa, it has remained in the collection of the same original owner till now.

While most often seen in yellow gold, this is an exceedingly elusive example forged from platinum. Measuring 38mm across and 35mm tall, the metal gives the watch presence beyond its physical proportions. The rounded, double-ellipse form of the bezel cascades down to the midcase. This effect is reinforced by the large, rounded lip that runs the length of the midcase, interrupted only by the lugs. The lugs offset the rounded form of the case – they are rounded at the top, while their edges are sharp and flat. They terminate with sharply bevelled edges, as if hemmed by an imaginary double-ellipse threshold. Their 20mm distance is furnished with a glossy, large grained leather strap secured by a platinum pin buckle.

The crown is partially ensconced in a cut out in the lip on the midcase. This serves to minimise its profile. It is knurled and sized well for the task of manually winding the calibre.

The closed caseback is vertically satinated. In addition to the maker’s mark and serial numbers that are engraved here, the caseback features the precious metal hallmarks.

The dial continues this play of straight and rounded forms. On the outside, the pin-striped guilloché dial is framed by a sauté piqué rim. The full, applied minutes also bears this sauté piqué decoration, as does the fan-style hours chapter. Both chapters are brushed. The minutes are marked by luscious black, applied plots while the hours chapter features Roman numerals. Such an hours chapter is all the more faithful to the inspiration Roth drew from – the One Minute Tourbillon.

Overlapping the minutes chapter, and tidily accommodated within the gap of the fan-style hours chapter, lies the subsidiary seconds. It too features a chapter sandwiched by sauté piqué rims and delineated with black printed plots. The hands are all heat blued – the hours and minutes indicators have arrow heads while the seconds hand is a simple pointer.  

Hidden behind the closed caseback is a movement based on the Lemania 27LN. It has been extensively reworked to include a retrograde module and finely finished to high horology standards by Roth.

The Retrograde reference 2127 embodies so much of what makes early Daniel Roth so attractive and coveted. It is refined and restrained, yet not without surprise. This early example in platinum retains much of that charm of this era.

Closer look

Condition

This Daniel Roth Retrograde ref. 2127 is in very good overall condition. The case and lugs remain unpolished and have light superficial marks throughout, consistent with minimal wear over time. The dial, hands, and movement are free from any signs of imperfection and have been well preserved. All hallmarks and engravings are crisp and well defined.

Warranty

The watch comes with a two-year, limited warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.