That idea, of putting amazing techwear in the company of tailoring, isn’t revolutionary – Prada is a fashion house that has excelled at it for a long time – but the ‘purity’ around our casualwear encourages clients to introduce it into their formal wardrobes in a way that feels sensical.
When we consider the notion of something classical that excels at being worn in a relaxed, contemporary way, outerwear is another really popular category.
One hundred percent. That’s why we’ve really enjoyed designing things like our polo coat, which is another consummate example of a highly tailored garment that goes above and beyond [in terms of wearability] once you visualise it outside its historic origin. We styled it a lot for the most recent PJ Tennis lookbook, and that has encouraged our clients to really embrace wearing tailored outerwear with tracksuits, sweats and the other stuff you generally gravitate toward on weekends.
You’ve used the word ‘purity’ a couple of times in reference to certain designs – is that a concept that can sometimes prove challenging for clients?
I think for men, more so than women. Our male clients often commission things based on their ‘place’ in the wardrobe – this idea that every piece of clothing has to fit into a predetermined category. The team and I prefer working in a way that’s elemental. Basically, what is the ultimate expression of this garment we’re looking at? At its best, how does it look, how does it operate, etc. Then we hone in on what we like, while trying to make as few compromises as possible: because, at the end of the day, things that are designed and made with this ‘pure’ philosophy tend to stand the test of time. A pair of peached cotton trousers in clay or cream – that’s something that exists beyond the cycle of fashion, that gives our clients room to express their own persona.
I guess that, in this context, the word ‘purity’ has a lot to do with going back to the origin of clothing – by that, I don’t mean X, Y or Z specific historical detail.