F. P. Journe
Ruthenium Octa Calendrier | Platinum

N. 01/99

Regular price


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F. P. Journe
Ruthenium Octa Calendrier | Platinum

N. 01/99

Regular price


This early F.P. Journe is the first Octa Calendrier to have been produced as part of the Ruthenium Collection, carrying the "01/99" serial number on the caseback. Produced exclusively between 2001 and 2003, the Ruthenium Collection took some of François-Paul Journe's earliest pieces, and scaled up their size, whilst adding a ruthenium coating to the dial and movement. 

The Ruthenium Collection

In 2001, two years after establishing his eponymous brand, François-Paul Journe selected five watches from the latter part of his brass movement production and gave them a special treatment. All the dials and brass movement plates were coated in ruthenium, a rare inert metal belonging to the platinum family. Due to its extreme hardness and greater insensitivity to oxidation, it is often used in electronics or aerospace engineering, though rarely ever included in watches.

All of the pieces from the collection were housed in a 40mm platinum case, which was larger than the usual 38mm size of the time, further setting these apart. In fact, with the exception of the Octa Zodiaque, these are amongst the very few 40mm brass movement watches in existence, which makes them all the more unusual.

Limited to 99 pieces for each model, the Ruthenium Collection includes the Tourbillon Souverain, the Chronomètre à Resonance, the Octa Chronographe, the Octa Calendrier and the Octa Réserve de Marche Jour et Nuit. In total, 495 Ruthenium Collection pieces are understood to have been produced. This piece further distinguishes itself for being the first Octa Calendrier from the collection, as confirmed by the distinctive "01/99" number on the caseback.

The Design

This Octa Calendrier is made distinctive by its ruthenium coated dial. It features the grainy texture and shimmer which has come to be associated with the watchmaker's earliest piece, while at the same time offering the depth of a darker colour-tone, which is broadly absent from the F.P. Journe production. Ruthenium has a complex colour, which varies depending on the angle and intensity of the light. As a result, the dial can go anywhere from a dark, charcoal colour to a lighter, smoke grey.

The Octa Calendrier is an annual calendar, meaning that it only requires adjustment once a year, in February, as it accounts for the long and short months throughout the year. The different elements of the date are displayed in an innovative way, which speaks to the watchmaker's inventiveness. The date is displayed on an arc which extends around the circumference of the dial, with a blued hand pointing to the correct date. Meanwhile, the day and month are shown through two apertures on the left hand side, which feature a grey background and white text, seamlessly blending into the rest of the design. 

Meanwhile, the hours and minutes are displayed to the right side, in a silvery subdial, another feature which distinguishes this as one of the earliest pieces from F.P. Journe. The dial layout builds on the asymmetrical aesthetic first cement by the Octa Réserve de Marche, whilst taking this further still. The words "Invenit et Fecit" are inscribed between the two apertures, underneath the watchmakers name (Latin for ‘Invented and Made’ or more literally "Designed and built by F.P. Journe") in classic F.P. Journe style - a nod to signing conventions of a century ago.

THE MOVEMENT

The self-winding F.P. Journe caliber 1300 movement is made from rhodium-plated brass, save for the bi-directional rotor in 22k rose gold. This is a logical choice for many watchmakers, for a rotor with a high karat gold count has a significantly higher mass than other materials such as brass or stainless steel. 

It features Côtes de Genève embellishments, and a shock absorber mechanism. It also integrates a straight-line lever escapement, and monometallic 4-arm balance with 4 timing weights, adjusted to 5 positions. The movement is engraved "Exclusive Power Reserve System" and "Precision Chronometer".

The development of the movement was a prolonged process, with the main task being refining the mainspring to a point where it gave consistent power to the gear train, for as large a proportion of its unwinding as possible. Together with a specialist spring maker, Journe finally settled on a design that was a metre long and 1mm thick. This caliber 1300 also integrates a power reserve of 120 hours.

THE SET

This Octa Calendrier from the Ruthenium Collection was sold through the F.P. Journe Patrimoine Service in 2019, having been serviced by the brand at the same time. It is accompanied by its Certificate (dated May 2019), signed by the watchmaker, as well as a newer F.P. Journe outer box and inner box.

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Brand: F. P. Journe
Model: Octa Calendrier Ruthenium 01/99
Movement: automatic Cal. 1300
Functions: annual calendar, retrograde date, day, hours, minutes, subsidiary seconds
Features: ruthenium coated brass movement, ruthenium coated gold dial, guilloché hours/mins, display-back
Case: 40 mm platinum
Crystal: sapphire front, back
Bracelet: bespoke Anthracite strap in grained leather, F. P Journe alligator strap with platinum tang buckle
Lug/buckle width: 20/19mm
Year: circa. 2003
Box & papers: Certificate (dated May 2019), outer box, inner box
This Ruthenium Octa Calendrier is in excellent condition. The case has been remarkably well preserved, with minor signs of very light wear, consistent with normal wear. The dial shows a consistent level of oxidation throughout, consciously left alone during the recent Patrimoine service. The watch is guaranteed for authenticity and comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man.

All of our pre-owned watches have undergone thorough mechanical inspections, including being ultrasonically cleaned, serviced and resealed if appropriate and tested for at least four days, to ensure they meet our highest timekeeping standards. Our pre-owned and vintage watches, unless stated otherwise, are covered by a full or a limited twenty-four month warranty. For example, due to their age, some vintage watches should not be subjected to the same conditions as when they were new. Please see our Terms & Conditions for further information. 

All of our new watches are covered by the warranty from the original manufacturer. Please contact us for further information.

We offer complimentary worldwide delivery on our watches. If ordering from overseas, delivery will depend on the value of the timepiece and the destination. All import taxes and duties are the responsibility of the buyer.

If ordering from the UK before 1 PM, your watch will be sent the same working day. The courier will depend on the value of the watch, with all watches delivered the next working day.

Please note that pre-owned goods (in the United Kingdom) are subject to a marginal rate of VAT, which can not be reclaimed. For further information, please see here

You can cancel your order without giving any reason, within 14 days from the day the watch has been delivered to you.

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