Andersen Genève Jour et Nuit, 573, White Gold

The Jour et Nuit is emblematic of watchmaker Svend Andersen’s watchmaking philosophy, and it is one that the Andersen Genève brand continues to abide by. Through his decades long career, the watchmaker has come to be known for his openness to ideas and his ability to pull them out from the sketchbook or ether into the material world. He did this principally by creating modules for these commissioned complications and unusual displays while using robust vintage èbauche calibres as bases. The watchmaker collaborated with a village of friends and artisans, including names such as Jean-Pierre Hagmann, Jean-Pierre Scherrer, Kees Engelbarts and others on these commissions.
 
Similarly, the Jour et Nuit was born from the desires and made to the designs of noted collector Walter Haselberger. His input extended from concept to name and Haselberger’s name has become integral to the story of the Jour et Nuit. The prototype was built around a Victorin Piguet minute repeater calibre designed for pocket watches. Andersen designed, a 1mm thin module with jumping hours and decentralised minutes that would be displayed in a subsidiary register.
 
This prototype Jour et Nuit caught the eye of Cartier and the brand commissioned Andersen Geneve in 1998 to create 125 examples of the Pasha Jour et Nuit. They had inside the F. Piguet calibre P 15 paired with Andersen Geneve’s jumping hour and decentralised minutes module.
 
Following this series, Andersen Geneve created its own iteration, referring to this as the Grand Jour et Nuit, released in 2000. The brand has produced no more than 10 examples annually, creating them in white, yellow and red gold. The example here is one of the very first produced in this series.
 
It features a slim white gold case that measures 42mm across and thanks to the negligible length of the short, straight lugs, the overall length of the case remains well within the realm of classical proportionality. The rounded bezel meets both the sapphire crystal and the midcase in prominent lips, with this detail also found on the exhibition caseback. While both the bezel and caseback are polished, the slim, recessed midcase wears horizontal satination. The caseback features HW Idee Design hallmarks as well as the early, single digit serial number engraved by hand.
 
The lugs stand 22mm apart and come furnished with a black, alligator-grained leather strap secured by a white gold, signed pin buckle. In between the lugs are the precious metal hallmarks as well as the SP casemaker mark.
 
The expansive dial – decorated with clous de Paris engine turning – serves as the backdrop for the dramatic two-tiered 24-hour time display. Set out over 180º on the northern half of the dial are two semi-circular hours chapters – the first one lays out the daytime hours between 6am and 6pm while the inner chapter features the hours between 6pm and 6am. The hours are Breguet-style and laid out on brushed chapters. The two-armed hours hand features a fluted sun motif for the longer end while the shorter one, corresponding to the night time hours chapter features a crescent moon. The hand itself is heat blued. Two white gold cartouches wear the brand mark and the Jour et Nuit names.
 
As the hours hand – advancing in one-hour increments – exits stage left, the hand with the moon begins it journey starting at 6pm. The minutes are indicated in the subsidiary register plied by a simple indicator that is also heat blued.
 
The simple and elegant solution to such a time display is made possible by a module designed by Andersen, as noted previously. It is paired with the calibre P 15, visible through the display caseback. It is 35.6mm across and only 1.9mm tall. Together with the module, the movement is just 2.9mm thick. According to Andersen Genève, it remains the thinnest jumping hour movement ever made.
 
It features refinements such as a KIF shock absorber, 20 jewels and is adjusted to five positions that is the chronometric standard. The balance is free sprung and the single barrel offers 40 hours of reserve. Beautifully adorned, the bridges wear fine, even Côtes de Genève with their edges softened with anglage. The baseplate is decorated with perlage.
 
This Jour et Nuit encapsulates the promise and possibilities of independent watchmaking at the turn of the century. Nothing was beyond grasp, especially at the Andersen Genève workshop. That this is one of the earliest examples of the watch makes this all the more special.

Closer look

Condition

This Andersen Genève Jour et Nuit is in excellent overall condition. The case and lugs show light superficial marks, consistent with relative wear. The dial, hands, and movement are free from any signs of imperfections and have been well preserved. Between both lugs at 12 and 6 o'clock, the hallmarks and engravings are crisp and well defined.

Warranty

A service is recommended with Andersen Genève, having not been closely examined by the brand in several years. One can arrange with the brand for the future owner.